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Food & Drink

In the Kitchen With: Marnie, Andrea and Jen’s Deviled Eggs

by Kristina Gill

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It is always a treat for me when we have illustrated recipes on the column, such as these by Emily Isabella bringing to life what authors Marnie Hanel, Andrea Slonecker and Jen Stevenson refer to as the “king of canapés,” also known as the deviled egg. Marnie, Andrea and Jen lead the Portland Picnic Society and today’s recipe for the deviled egg with twelve variations and homemade mayonnaise comes from the Society’s first book, The Picnic: Recipes and Inspiration from Basket to Blanket. It is a lovely, hand-illustrated cookbook which covers the ABCs of picnicking. It’s full of useful tips, such as those for transporting deviled eggs: Pack a container of already prepared egg whites and a resealable plastic bag of filling in a cooler. Once you arrive at the park, snip the corner of the bag and pipe away! —Kristina

About Marnie, Andrea and Jen: Marnie Hanel writes for The New York Times Magazine,W MagazineDepartures, and Marie Claire. Andrea Slonecker is a cookbook writer, food stylist, the recipe editor of Kinfolk, and the author of Pretzel Making at Home and Eggs on Top. Jen Stevenson runs the Portland food blog Under the Table with Jen and is the author of Portland’s 100 Best Places to Stuff Your Faces. Together, Hanel, Slonecker and Stevenson lead the Portland Picnic Society, a group that was founded to celebrate the art of picnicking.

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The Essential Deviled Egg
Makes 1 dozen

The best deviled egg recipe is one that easily shifts to your culinary whims. This recipe is delicious on its own, garnished with a dash of cayenne or a pinch of chopped chives, but turn to page 36 for a dozen divine new identities.

-6 large eggs, hard-cooked and peeled
-1⁄2 cup DIY Mayonnaise (recipe follows) or store-bought mayonnaise
-1 teaspoon dijon mustard
-1⁄2 teaspoon champagne vinegar
-Pinch of fine sea salt

In the Basket
Egg whites in plastic container
Bag of filling (inside bag of ice) + scissors
Garnish
Serving plate (bonus points for a bonafide deviled egg platter)

Preparation
1. Halve each egg lengthwise, pop out the yolks, and press them through a potato ricer into a small bowl. Rinse the egg whites and pat dry.

2. Whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the egg yolks and whisk the filling until smooth.

3. Spoon the filling into a 1-quart resealable plastic bag, or a pastry bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch fluted tip, and chill it until the picnic, or for up to 48 hours. (Cover the tip in plastic wrap before screwing the plastic ring into place.) Transport the filling to the picnic in a cooler or 1-gallon resealable plastic bag filled with ice.

4. At the picnic, snip a corner of the plastic bag, or unseal your pastry bag, and squeeze about 1 tablespoon of filling into each egg white. Serve to wild applause, real or imaginary.

DIY Mayonnaise
Makes 1 1⁄3 cups

Homemade mayonnaise trumps store-bought any day, and it’s straightforward to make. Try this once and next time you’ll be whipping up a batch in minutes.

-2 large egg yolks (preferably fresh eggs from a farmers’ market)
-2 teaspoons cider vinegar
-1 teaspoon dijon mustard
-1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt
-3⁄4 cup vegetable oil
-1⁄4 cup mild extra-virgin olive oil
-2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
-Pinch of freshly ground pepper

1. Put the egg yolks, vinegar, mustard, and salt in a food processor and pulse until combined. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. With the motor running, begin adding the vegetable oil in a slow stream, then the olive oil, until it emulsifies and thickens. Scrape the sides of the bowl again. When the emulsion has formed, begin adding the oil in a faster stream until it is all incorporated. If at any point after the emulsion forms the mayonnaise becomes too thick, add about 1⁄2 teaspoon of the lemon juice to loosen it, and continue. To finish, pulse in the lemon juice and pepper, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Store the mayonnaise for up to 1 week in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

TINY TIP:
If the mayonnaise separates after some of the oil is added, the emulsion has broken. To fix a broken mayonnaise, whisk together 1 egg yolk and 1 teaspoon water in a clean bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in the broken mayonnaise. When it has all emulsified, continue adding the remaining oil and proceed as directed in the recipe.

AIOLI VARIATION:
With a chef’s knife, mince 1 garlic clove, then sprinkle it with salt and mash to a paste using the edge of the knife blade. Add the garlic paste to the food processor at the beginning along with the egg mixture, then proceed to add the oil as directed in the recipe. Thin the emulsion with a splash of water for a saucy consistency.

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Excerpted from The Picnic by Marnie Hanel, Andrea Slonecker, and Jen Stevenson (Artisan Books). Copyright (c) 2015. Illustrations by Emily Isabella.

Why Marnie, Andrea, and Jen love deviled eggs: Deviled eggs are the quintessential picnic food for good reason: they’re eye-catching, inexpensive, and easy to eat. For only having five ingredients (eggs, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, Champagne vinegar, fine sea salt) our recipe packs a lot of oomph, and can be modified a dozen different ways.

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