Thanks for joining me again as we wrap up wall upholstery and enjoy the finished room. If you’re just joining us, be sure to refer to wall upholstery, part 1 before reading on. Last time, we padded, stretched and stapled our walls. Now it’s time to sew, glue and assemble our way to the finish line. So flex your muscles, and let’s get back to it! — Amanda
Read the full how-to after the jump . . .
- curved needle
- staple remover
- white or yellow chalk
- screw driver
- hot glue gun
- glue sticks
Don’t forget to check out Upholstery Basics: Tool Time to learn more about the tools we’re using today.
While upholstering the walls, I noticed that staples were deflecting on the convex (outside corners) of my room and remembered that the metal corner bead was installed when the drywall was put in. To work around this, I’m hand-sewing all of the outside corners shut. Although your room may not have corner bead or even convex corners, you’ll still need to know how to hand-sew to close up the last open corner in your room.
1. Thread the curved needle and meet the two ends of thread. I’m starting with thread that is a length of 10″ (20″ total) when doubled over.
2. Take the ends of the thread and wind them around your index finger.
8. Pull the thread through; then insert the needle next to where the thread just came out. As you insert the needle this time, go through all layers of fabric, including the lowest layer of fabric stapled from the adjacent wall. Pull the thread through about 1/2″ beyond where you inserted the needle.
12. Place your needle behind the fabric and pull the thread out at the top corner. Insert the needle into the fabric from the adjacent wall right next to where you pulled out the thread. Pull the thread out 1/2″ or less below.
17. Pull out the slack in the loop to make a knot.
24. Cut off the thread as close to the fabric as possible without cutting the fabric. If you have a bit of thread sticking out of the fabric, rub your fingernail over the fabric until the threads go back into the fabric.
If this is your last corner, you may proceed! Otherwise, keep sewing until all your corners are closed. This part takes some time (about an hour for each corner), so I got all caught up with Downton Abbey while I was working.
26. Find an electric outlet or switch and make a chalk mark at all four corners. Draw an “X” to connect the corners.
31. Assemble any wall-mounted fixtures such as drapery rods and sconces. Sockets, switches and fixtures should be easy to find, since we cleared away Dacron from these items in part 1 (steps 9–10).
32. Follow steps 15–22 on picture-perfect backs to make double welt cord and glue it over the exposed staples. Most of you already had baseboards and trim installed in your room, so you’ll be attaching double welt cord next to the ceiling or crown molding, around trim on doors and windows and next to baseboards where you stapled the fabric.
Wall Upholstery Tips and Tricks
- Windows and doors are easy to upholster around. Stretch and staple the fabric across the top and sides of the wall; then staple next to the trim on the windows and doors. Smooth out any excess fabric to the bottom and staple. Cut off the excess fabric with a utility knife to expose the windows and doors.
- If you accidentally scuff paint on your ceilings and/or baseboards, touch-up the paint before gluing the double welt cord.
I’m so pleased with my shimmery boudoir and can’t believe the difference it makes in sound absorption! Check out the resources below for information on the fabrics and flooring used in the room. All fabrics are available at Spruce.
Wall fabric: Norbar’s Monty in Silver
Headboard fabric: Jim Thompson’s Baxan in Carnival
Lampshade fabric: Kravet’s 32187, color 1
Dying for more upholstery? Check out other projects on Upholstery Basics!