101brett baradiy projectssewing 101

sewing 101: pleated + lined drapes

by Brett

Curtains are one of my favorite things to sew for the home. They require only the most basic sewing skills, and stitching them yourself allows you to create distinctive, custom draperies that could cost a fortune to have professionally made. Luckily, if you have a sewing machine and a spare weekend, you can sew curtains that are guaranteed to look professional and add a truly polished finish to your room. In the past we’ve looked at how to make a basic curtain panel, but in this post we’re taking it up a notch and making pleated curtains that are also lined. These curtains are the real deal, and I promise that they’re easier to make than you think — the trick is using pleating tape, which makes perfect pleats a breeze. Let’s get started! — Brett Bara

Read the full how-to after the jump . . .


  • fabric for the exterior of your curtains (You can use a wide variety of fabrics here, from medium-weight cottons to heavy-weight decorator fabrics. Calculate the amount you need below.)
  • fabric for lining (A medium-weight cotton or special curtain-lining fabric, which comes in many weights and options, including black-out. You can also use a white sheet for the lining.)
  • pleating tape
  • drapery hooks
  • drapery weights
  • sewing machine, pins, scissors, iron and basic sewing supplies

In addition to your selected fabric, these are the special materials you’ll need to create pleated curtains. At the top is pleating tape, which is what makes all the magic happen. It’s a special tape that you sew to the inside top of your curtain panel. It has skinny vertical pockets every inch or so; you insert the four-pronged drapery hooks (bottom left) into the pockets, cinching the tape and creating perfectly even pleats. There are many types of pleating tape on the market that allow you to achieve all kinds of effects — from shirring to box pleats to pencil pleats — so feel free to explore and choose whatever you like for your windows.

In this post, I’m using four-pronged long-neck/ceiling pleat hooks. Like pleating tape, there are many types of drapery hooks on the market, and they all interact with the pleating tapes and your curtain rod/rings in different ways to achieve different effects. So take a look at what’s out there when you’re deciding which hooks to use.

At the bottom right is a curtain weight, which is not absolutely crucial but will lend a more professional look to your curtains. The weights get sewn into the bottom hem of the curtain panels, helping them hang nice and straight.

1. Measuring

To determine how large to cut your fabric, first you’ll have to measure your windows. I start by installing my curtain rods wherever I want them so I have a fixed place to measure from. Then, measure for the finished length of your curtains by measuring from the spot on your curtain rings or rod where the curtains will attach to the point where you’d like the bottom of the curtains to fall. Write down this number as measurement A. Next, measure your desired width of each curtain panel and write this down as measurement B. (Note: Each type of pleating tape creates a different gather, so check your specific tape to see how much extra fabric width you need to plan for your pleats. In most cases, it is at least double the desired width of each panel.)

For the exterior of each curtain panel, you’ll need to cut a piece of fabric that is as long as A + 11″ and as wide as B + 4″. For the lining, cut a piece that’s 5″ shorter and 4″ narrower than your exterior piece. (Note: If your fabric isn’t wide enough to reach your measurements, seam two pieces together vertically and then proceed.)

2. Cutting the fabric

Okay, I know I said that sewing curtains is extremely easy, but there is one tricky part, and that’s wrestling with the large pieces of fabric and keeping everything straight and even. First things first: It really helps to have a good workspace for a large project like curtains. Try to set yourself up in a space where you have enough surface area (usually on the floor, unless you have the luxury of giant work tables) to spread out your fabric comfortably. If you need to move furniture out of the room to make space, do it!

Once your fabric is all spread out, it’s time to cut. To keep your pieces of fabric straight and square, use the selvage of your fabric as a guide. The selvage is the finished edge of the fabric, which is where the fabric was attached to the loom when it was manufactured. Often the selvage will be a different color and have some writing on it that indicates who made it. Here’s the important thing to know: You should trim off the selvage before you start sewing. Because it is a different texture than the rest of the fabric, it can cause puckering in your seams if you don’t trim it off.

When you trim off your selvage, know that that edge of the fabric is a true straight edge, so use it as a guide when you cut. Use a long ruler and pencil to draw a line (or a rotary cutter and straight edge, if you have one) and make your first cuts parallel to both selvage edges. Then when you make your perpendicular cuts for length, be sure to make them at right angles to your selvage cuts. These steps will ensure that you have nice, straight pieces of fabric to work with. I find it very helpful to use my cutting mat as a guide for this, but if you don’t have a cutting mat, you can use a carpenter’s square to check your edges and corners. (I’ve even been known to use a laser level square to check my edges when sewing big things!)

(In this post I’m making a miniature curtain panel so you can see all the elements, but in small scale.) After you cut your pieces, this is what you should have: your exterior piece plus your lining, which will be a bit smaller on all sides.

3. Hem the bottoms

The first step is to hem the bottom edges of both the exterior and the lining. To do this, fold up the bottom edge 4″ and press. Fold it up another 4″ and press again.

Pin the layers in place, then sew the hem by stitching about 1/4″ from the interior folded edge.

Hem the lining in the exact same way.

4. Sew the sides

It’s time to attach the lining to the exterior. Lay out both of your pieces, with the right sides of the fabric facing together. Align them so that the hemmed edge of the lining is 2″ above the hemmed edge of the exterior (as shown in the right edge in the photo above) and the raw edges of the pieces are aligned along one side (as shown in the top edge in the photo above).

Sew the two pieces together along the aligned raw edges, with a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Next we’ll sew the other side. Because the exterior is wider than the lining, you’ll need to shift the fabrics to line up the raw edges of the side opposite the seam you just sewed. Be sure to keep the hem of the lining 2″ above the hem of the exterior. Pin the fabrics in place, then sew along this edge as you did before.

Turn the two pieces right-side out, and this is what you’ll have: The exterior fabric will fold in and create a border on the lining side.

Be sure to evenly distribute the fabric so the lining is centered and the border on each side is even, and then iron the sides so that the seam is flat and the edges are creased.

This process makes the exterior fabric wrap around to the lining side so that if the edges of your curtain panels flip out slightly, you’ll see your decorative fabric and not the lining.

5. Insert the weights

Now we need to finish the hem and insert the weights. As you can see, when you turn your panels right-side out, there will be a spot at the bottom where the raw edge of your fabric is visible (in the 2″ space where the lining doesn’t cover the seam). Turn this raw edge under 1/2″ and press it.

Then slide a weight under the edge of the fabric, tucking it into the space where the fabric wraps around to meet the lining. Using a needle and thread, tack the weight in place by sewing the fabric tab on the top of the weight to the inside wrapped portion of the curtain. Finally, use the needle and thread to sew the interior folded edge closed (i.e., the edge you just folded under and ironed).

Repeat to add another weight on the other bottom corner of each panel.

A note about the hem: The hem of the lining and the hem of the exterior do not get sewn together. The idea is that they each hang freely, which helps the curtain panels to hang straight, without puckering. The hem is made 2″ shorter than the exterior just to avoid any chance that the hem might peek out from the bottom or become visible when the curtains move.

6. Finish the top edge

Here’s what the top edge of your panel should look like: The exterior will extend 3″ above the lining.

Simply fold the exterior down 3″ over the lining, and press it in place.

7. Attach the pleating tape

Finally, it’s time for the pleating tape! Simply cut a piece of tape that is as wide as your curtain panel (folding under the raw edges of the tape 1/4″ and pressing them). Align the tape with the top edge of the curtain panel.

Okay, now we’re going to take a brief detour so I can tell you about a little trick. As you can see, the drapery hook here is not as tall as the pleating tape. (I could not find hooks the same size as my tape.) If I were to sew the tape in place as is, the hook, as you can see, would fall about 1″ from the top edge of the curtain panel. What this would mean is that my curtain fabric would extend 1″ beyond the spot where I hang it, which in my case would mean that it would partially cover my curtain rings. I wanted my panels to float just below my curtain rings, so I needed a fix for this.

My solution, since I couldn’t find skinner pleating tape in the style I wanted, was to simply fold under the top edge of the tape and iron it in place. This solution worked just fine, and as you can see, now the hooks meet the top edge of the curtain. So if you have a similar issue, know that you can play around with the tape to make it do what you want!

Once you’re happy with the placement of the tape, pin it in place, using lots of pins along both edges so nothing will shift. Then simply sew it to the curtain panel, stitching along the dotted line at the bottom of the tape, as well as along the top edge of the tape. (Be sure to check that the pockets of your tape are situated at the bottom with the opening of the pockets on the outside!)

Here’s how everything will look at this stage: The panel is finished on all sides with no raw edges visible, and the tape is stitched flat to the panel, flush with the top edge.

8. Time to pleat!

We made it! It’s time to pleat! All that’s left is to insert the prongs of the pleating hooks into the pockets of the tape.

Slide the hooks all the way in . . .

And you’ve got pleats!

You can place the hooks at any interval you like, depending how close you want your pleats to be. I placed mine with three or four empty pockets between each pleat.

Here’s how they look on the front. Magic!

Place each hook on your curtain rings or rod, and sit back and admire your work!

Suggested For You


  • thank you!! i really appreciate this lesson!

    i agree that the most terrifying part about this is the handling of the large amount of fabric.

  • Heck yes! Design Sponge comes through for me, as usual! I’ve been agonizing over the lack of curtains on my many living room windows, wanting lined ones but not finding any I like. And just last night I was combing through some books at the library for a pattern so I could make my own- to no avail. And here you are today. Coming through for me again. Design Sponge: you RULE!

  • I’m excited to eventually utilize this post! I feel like I can never find the right style that I’m looking for in my budget. I’m down to try it myself!

  • Wow this is awesome! everything about it. It looks so professional too since you added the little weights and stuff.

  • Thanks so much for this! It’s exactly what I was looking for and looks easier than I though.

  • I have wanted to do this forever and this post is just the trick to get me going. Thank you!

  • I noticed from the salvedged edge that the fabric is from Project Runway designer Jay McCarroll for FreeSpirit Fabrics. I’m not quite sure what the design is called but I like it. Thanks for all the great info.

  • hi all!

    The fabric is Birch in Peach from Jay McCarroll’s Habitat collection from Free Spirit fabrics/Westmister Fabrics. It’s running out of stock in many places but I did find it at this Etsy shop: http://www.etsy.com/listing/71707900/birch-in-peach-from-jay-mccarrolls

    AK, the pleating tape is 4″ multipleat tape.

    Karen, the light fixture is Finn by West Elm – currently on sale! http://www.westelm.com/products/finn-chandelier-w666/?pkey=csale-lighting

    Happy curtain making!

  • I normally dislike curtains as a rule, but in this fabric they look great. What is the fabric and where can i get some!?

  • Can you give an estimate of how much it might cost to do two panels for one window? I know fabric choice plays a part, but in terms of supplies?

  • Just curious – you didn’t sew down the sides of the drapes, right? Why not? Other tutorials indicate a seam down the sides.

    Also, do the weights help prevent the curtains from flipping up (like a j) at the sides?

  • I notice that this fabric is quilter’s fabric and only 45″ wide. Did you use two widths on each panel? They look great!

  • Is there a reason you made them short? I must admit, I would have them go to the floor.

  • Oh yay! I am totally going to make these…thanks for taking the mystery out of it…that pleaters tape is fabulous….

  • I admit, I am eagerly waiting for a reply to the last comment above that questions the short curtains. I’m curious because I like curtains going to the floor but am cursed with electric heaters under every freakin’ window. I would ignore it but my father in law who’s a retired fireman has seen a few horrors with curtains hanging against electric heaters. I’m stubborn, they are all long and touching the floors but a little voice tells me that I should put more thought into it. It would kill me (and my love for good taste and design sense) to shorten my expensive curtains to float above the heaters which would mean 7 inches above the ground. Just like nerd pants! What do you think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, GREAT POST!!! Love the curtains! Even if short. Nice job! :)

  • Thanks! Now I finally know why the curtains I made pucker at the bottom! I think I may have to change that someday soon, now that I know the correct way to make them!

  • Your new draperies are very pretty, but I do agree that they should drag the floor. Of course, you may have needed to shorten them because of the heating units. I just made draperies with the help of a friend who is a drapery professional. She had me make mine 3″ longer than the measurement to the floor. I did the hem and side seams by hand so the stitching would not show on the face fabric. She had me add inner lining, a heavy flannel, to make the draperies hang better. I didn’t use the pleater tape; I measured and sewed the pleats, then did the three little folds in each pleat by hand and stuffed the top of each pleat with cotton batting. I offer these suggestions because draperies take so much pricey fabric and they look so much better when they are lined and innerlined like a professional would do. The construction is not difficult.

  • Am I the only one having trouble printing this column? Is there a trick I’m missing?

  • Thank you so much for these clear, easy to follow instructions. I am a novice and used them to make my first curtain this week. It took 12 hours, but I enjoyed it immensely and will be doing curtain no. 2 as soon as I am rested!

  • I disagree with the folks who want them all the way to the floor. Aesthetics aside, it’s so much easier to clean the floor when the drapes hang high. And as a cat owner, I actually made the curtain in my kitchen 14 in. off the floor intentionally since the previous blinds got cat hair all over them when the cats tried to go under the curtain to look out the sliding doors. Sometimes practicality supersedes looks. I think Brett’s are stunning as they are.

  • Thanks so much for the wonderful directions. I have just redecorated my bedroom and wanted some really nice curtains (but didn’t want to pay the price. Mine are a beautiful cream floral chennile and I lined them with blackout lining (per my husbands request). The hardest thing definately was dealing with the 90 inches of heavy curtain. I could NOT have done it without this tutorial. THANKS AGAIN!


  • These are awesome instructions! I have been following them and have completed 1 of 4 panels. Who knew how hard it would be to manage almost 30 yards of fabric (drapes and liners)! I am having a heck of a time getting the pleats to turn out looking nice. What’s your trick? Did you skip every other pocket like most do? i may have just been frustrated, but if there’s a trick or something I’m overlooking I would love to know!

    I also modified these a little so I can hem them on the rod since our rods haven’t been hung yet.

  • Seriously, thank you so much for this tutorial. I’ve searched through several books, and blogs to figure this out. You’re pics of each step really made it easy to understand where as other books and blogs had way more text and only 3-5 pics. I could not have finished my beautiful drapes without you!

  • I just purchased 4 bedspreads from IKEA that I’m turning into drapes. Just need to get some lining material. Thanks for the tutorial! I didn’t want my drapes to just be “clipped” and hung…I’m ready for some “grown up”drapes, but without the fat price that pottery barn charges. Thank You for the tips….!!!

  • I have daperies witha pocket. They are 109 inches wide finished. I would like to pinch pleat these. What would my measurements for the pleats be. I have made pinch pleated drapes before but i need to get the spacing correct. any help would be appreciated


  • Need help in pinch pleating a fabric that is 109 inches wide. that is the finished width, including side seams. What would the meaurement be for pleating

    thank you.

  • Thank you very much for the easy-to-follow tutorial. I’ve now successfully sewn my first set of curtains!

  • If your doing more than 1 cut of fabric this technique could be disastrous. The best way to finish draperies and have them hang correctly is by hand stitching or blind hemmer. The layers need to be tabled together and properly fit to not have a lining that is baggy or tight. A cut of light weight cotton about 45″ square isn’t going to act like 2.5 widths stitched together,108″ long, to cover a window 100″+ wide, especially if there is a large variation in the weave and the weight of the face fabric and the lining.

    • Good tip! If joining 2 panels of 54” wide home dec fabric, how do you stitch that “center” seam? I prefer hand stitching the sides but geez my ceilings are 18’ tall. Any tips to machine sew the sides and have them lay flat and straight without pulling?? That’s my question for the ages:-/
      A walking foot did not improve the outcome, nor did a longer stitch. What am I missing?!

  • I was searching on the internet for private sewing lessons — someone in my area who could teach me to make lined, pleated drapes. I’m an accomplished “simple sew-er,” so just needed to be taught the details and tricks. This is terrific; no private lessons needed! Thanks a million.

  • Thank you for this post–it has been so helpful. The last drapes I made, I didn’t use any kind of pattern. I just kind of winged it and each panel was different. The lining was all scrunched up and didn’t hang well. I moved and for my new windows, decided to use your post as my guide. My new curtains are gorgeous! So professional-looking. This was easy to follow and just what I needed. Thanks!!

  • I’d also like to say that the comment Malissa wrote above is not correct. The drapes I made using this tutorial are 2 widths wide and 92″ tall. The lining was much lighter-weight than the heavy outer fabric, but everything hangs great. I am very pleased. Don’t be scared if you are doing this too, folks!

  • Hi there! I followed your awesome instructions and now have a beautiful set of custom lined French pleated drapes that look like they cost literally hundreds of dollars. We have a light that shines in our window at night so I used a heavier black out lining and everything still worked perfectly. I have very meager sewing skills, but this made me look like a rockstar to my husband (and my parents!) Thank you so much.

  • Hi ,I have been sewing and making drapes for years none recently until I decided to make pinch pleated drapes for two windows in my bedroom After I sewed the tape on and inserted the hooks I went to the store to find the rings to hang the hooks on but I could only find rings with little :clothes pins : so I removed the pins and inserted the hooks on to a circle at the bottom of the ring ,hope all this makes sense but on the window it looks just perfect.

  • These instructions were great – without them I wouldn’t have attempted this project, and the curtains look professional and beautiful! But, if you are like me and have never used pleating hooks before, and you use the exact kind in the picture, a little more guidance may be necessary. Each prong goes in a separate pocket. And you have to skip pockets. Otherwise, it doesn’t work out! But they do look awesome when done correctly!!!

  • I am a complete novice and accomplished making these beautiful drapes. Thank you so much for the comprehensive instructions. As for the length…..I made mine to stop just under the window sill for a small window and they look so professional. Now I am making some for the bedroom and the old drapes went all the way to the floor. These will be about 6 inches from the floor. One window is already finished (there are two) and the shorter length allows the drapes to hang well, much better than to the floor.

  • I’m impressed, I have to admit. Rarely do I come across a blog that’s equally educative and amusing, and let me tell you, you have
    hit the nail on the head. The issue is something nott enough folks are speeaking intelligently
    about. Now i’m very happy I stumbled across this during my
    hunt for something relating to this.

  • I’m starting my drape project this week and have a question. My panel will be three widths of fabric wide. The lining also will be three widths wide. Do I have to tack the lining anywhere along those widths or will it be OK to just sew the lining to the outside edges as was shown in tour tutorial?

  • I have a question on the lining. My panel will be three widths wide as will my lining. Do I need to tack the lining along any of the width seams, or will attaching it only on both sides as shown work?

  • Can I use the pleated tape to convert back tab curtains into pinch pleated? I have the pattern chosen in ready made drapes but they only come in back tab style.

  • Used this tutorial to make curtains two years ago. Was searching for it to make more. So happy I found it. The last ones turned out perfect. Thank you

  • Thank you for this tutorial. I just finished sewing my first set of pleated curtains and there looking great. There double wide and I didn’t put the lining since here in the winter the sun goes down at 4:30 so I will be backlighting the curtains on those long winter evening.

  • Hi, thanks for the post, I am looking forward to actually making the drapes with the fabric I’ve had for…about 2 years ;)

  • I have used this kind of pleater before and they are extremely hard to place into the fabric. Years ago there was another kind of pleater that was easier to put in place, but no one sells it anymore. Is there some trick you use to getting the pleaters into the tape plus fabric?

  • I just used these directions to make drapes! They are really good! It would have cost me a fortune to have them made, so I bought the designer fabric I liked and went for it. Thanks so much for posting this!

  • Wow! What a great job and showing the process of fabricating drapery panels with pleat tape and all the drapery supplies need to complete the project. Just one tip.. custom drapery workrooms do not pillow cased the lining. It’s easy to double fold the side hems and just blind stitch them.

    • Claudia, i am interested in your way of attaching the lining. Can you please explain “double fold the side hems and just blind stitch them”? I am thinking you are saying to double fold the fabric and the lining sides, independant of each other, and then hand tacking the lining sides to the fabric sides. Correct?

  • Thank you!! This is by far the best tutorial I have seen! Off to work on my dining room drapes!

  • Fantastic tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to explain what you did so clearly. Very easy to follow! I like your attention to detail, like narrowing the pleater tape by folding.

  • I was looking for pleater tape instructions. Wow, what a great tutorial, simple, straight forward and uncomplicated. I have all the componenents and can’t wait to get started. A big THANKS.

  • Thank you for publishing this guide – of all I researched prior to embarking on making my first curtains, this guide was the best to follow step by step. Thanks!

  • Excellent job Design Sponge! May I add one small suggestion? When you are sewing two or more full widths of material together always sew in a wieght on the seams in the hem. This will help prevent puckering.

  • Thanks for the excellent detailed description. I am making new sheers so I won’t need a lining but your instructions are so helpful.

  • this is so helpful! we are trying to pinch pleat store bought grommeted velvet panels… we tried using tape and prongs (v similar to yours) but the pleats are really thick. would you recommend just machine sewing a euro pleat instead…?

  • This is a wonderful, easy to How-To manual. So easy to follow and great illustrations. I have referred to this multiple times a day when making my six drapes for my new boat! Couldn’t have done it without you! One small suggestion you might add: when cutting your fabric it is useful to Pencil an arrow on the top so you don’t get confused as to which way is up if the pattern of the fabric doesn’t show an obvious “UP end”. (My fabric was damask- like and it was important to keep the sheen of the pattern in the correct direction.)

  • Awesome tutorial!!! I am not a sewer, nor am I planning on making any drapes / curtains, but I do have a big question. We had curtains professionally made for us for our new house – for 2 window – a 1050 and a 7050. Our ceiling is at 9′, and the top of the windows are at 8′ – so – the curtains are big. We have grommets in the top of the curtains and those slide on the curtain rod. The material is a pretty heavy fabric and it has a sheer white lining behind it. The problem that we are having is that the lining does not stay within the folds of the curtains when they are open and it gets all bunched up between the curtain and the wall.

    I see in your tutorial that you say specifically to NOT connect the hem of the lining and the hem of the curtain fabric. We had our installer came back and try to fix it. She installed a rinky-dink little chain on the backside and pinned it at the folds. It didn’t work and now we have sharp pins buried falling on our carpet.

    Do you have any suggestions? We have friends who sew (we do not – at all!) and even though you say not too, it seems like the only way we could remedy the situation is to attach the liner along the bottom seam. I have pictures that I can send you – I will try to insert them in this response, too.




    Any help would be greatly appreciated.


    • Hi, Darryll. I am sorry that you are having this problem. The article is correct. The lining should not be attached at the bottom to the main fabric. It would bunch with time as the two fabrics relax, stretch, and are affected by heat, humidity and age. The lining, as you describe it, is far too lightweight for the heavier main fabric. So, the lining “floats” or “puffs” out when the drapes are opened.

      Your choices are to either remove this lining or replace the lining for the best results. Weights sewn into the lining hem would be much better than the pinned chains you describe.

      However, there is one thing you can try first: finger press the lining and main fabric together into the folds the drapes create when they are opened. You will be “training” the lining fabric to match the folds the main fabric creates. It is fine to crease the lining fabric with your fingers — this won’t hurt the lining at all or ruin the look. Because these drapes are large and heavy, having two people will make this easier (one on a ladder, one standing). Both of you can “press” the same fold at the same time.

      If I haven’t been clear, please let me know. I’ll be happy to try the explanation again. I have been sewing home decor professionally for years. It’s all about choosing the correct fabrics. Good luck!

      • I’m going to try the Stayfold drapery fold control package with my draperies as I have heat vents right below the drapes and the drapes billow. I have used tie back hardware but prefer the drapes hang straight.

    • Better late than never. Another suggestion is to try the technique of ‘bandaging’ the panel and lining together to basically train how they fall. Web search; how to bandage drapes. (i.e.: While the panels are hung in the open/stacked position; strips of fabric are strategically placed/ wrapped around them and left for a few days.) Hope this helps (other readers who may be experiencing a similar problem.) -Brenda-

  • This is very helpful! I am about to make lined drapery panels for a friend with a pretty heavy fabric. They want 4 panels at a full 54″ width each and would like to see 2 panels sewn together on each side of the window (for a total of 108″ width on ea side).Would this be too much width/weight or have you had experience with this?

  • THANK YOU! I had draperies made from heavy damask that I purchased on my honeymoon with money my aunt gave me to “bring back a memory that lasts”. The curtain maker seems to have sewn the curtains OK but installed NO pleated tape nor any other means to hang them. Years have gone by & I feared to fix them myself – but I went to the fabric store & asked enough questions to get the correct tape and pleated hooks. I pinned all in place but THEN I feared going forward in case I guessed wrong about how I pinned the tape. YOUR wonderful tutorial has shown me I guessed correctly and I can go forward! (Tho I’m leary of experimenting with my $20 sewing machine :-) Finally! After 18 years, this beautiful material from Provence France may become the curtains with a GOOD memory that lasts! Thank you so very much for sharing your talent & gifts online. Janie

  • These are great detailed step-by-step instructions, and the pictures really help. Your finished work is beautiful. I have made a lot of window treatments but have always been nervous about pleats. This will give me the confidence to dive in. Thank you!

  • Thank you for the step by step instructions! They are very helpful. The windows I have are hard to fit for store bought curtains. So this info is just what i need to fit these windows the way I want. October 2, 2017 at 6:45 pm.

  • Very good detailed instructions. The best site I read. I came back to it several time after searching other sites. Thank you!

  • I think your tutorial is one of the best I have found! Having one large drapery panel now done I now find the pleater hooks won’t work as intended with the cafe rings I have. I need the locking ones as you have in your instructions. The link you have in the instructions that takes you to the Rowley site is possibly dated and those hooks no longer available. Any direction on finding the type used in these instructions would be appreciated!!

  • These instructions and photos were perfect. I’ve sewn my whole life but have been away from it for a number of years, and your guidelines were perfect – especially the measurements and tips. Thanks so much for helping me make drapes for my daughter’s new finished basement!