I’ll bet that whether you’re at work or home, you’re willing to linger a little longer if your seat is soft. There’s no telling what you found while stripping your piece of furniture. How about some horse hair, pig hair, hay, even old t-shirts to pad your seat? I kid you not . . . I’ve found them all! This month on Upholstery Basics, we’ll add a little cush to the coils we tied in Part I with some cotton, foam and Dacron. Whether your chair has coil springs, zigzag springs or no springs, you can use these steps to rebuild your tight seat, sans t-shirts. — Amanda
*Click here for part 3!
Read the full how-to after the jump!
- staple remover
- air compressor
- 1/2” long staples
- edge roll
- permanent marker
- square point upholstery knife or razor blade
- seat foam
- electric carving knife
- spray adhesive
- cotton batting
If you’re starting with no springs, refer to steps 2–9 from Part I, but staple the webbing on top of the frame instead of the bottom. If you have zigzag (sinuous) springs, which look the same way they sound, start here. And don’t forget your goggles!
1. Cut a piece of burlap a few inches bigger than the seat on all sides and center it on top of the frame. Staple the middle of the back side. Avoid stapling on top of tacks, and do your best to keep the staples in the center of the frame where it’s strongest.
2. Pull the excess to the front and staple.
3. Now that we have the burlap secured in place, we’ll need to make some cuts to release the burlap around the back leg posts. Release cuts can be tricky, so before you start cutting, smooth the burlap from the middle of the seat to a post that’s in the way, and fold the excess burlap back. If the corner of the post is the first thing you touch, draw a line from the middle of the seat to the post on the back side of the burlap you just folded over.
4. If the flat side of the post is the first thing you touch rather than the corner of the post, draw a y-cut as shown in the diagram below on the back side of the excess burlap. A perfect y-cut is shown on the left, where the ends of the y perfectly meet the sides of the post. If the cut needs to be deeper (burlap puckers in front of the post), always extend the ends of the y straight back to the edges of the post as shown on the right. You don’t want to make the y wider than the width of the post. Otherwise, you’ll see frayed or cut edges.
5. Now cut on the lines you’ve drawn, but be careful not to cut too far. As you get close to the post, make baby cuts until it’s to the right depth. Then place a few staples on either side of the post to hold it in place.
6. Repeat steps 3–5 for the other leg posts and any wooden arm posts, if you have them.
7. Once you have all of the release cuts secured, continue pulling tightly and stapling the burlap all the way around the frame.
8. Fold over the excess burlap and staple again.
The point of edge roll is to provide extra padding on the edges that get the most wear and tear. On this chair, we’ll put edge roll on the front and two sides and skip the back side, since it doesn’t get much action. If your chair has wooden arms, put edge roll on the part of the frame that’s in front of the arms.
9. With a small seat like this, I use a 1/2” diameter edge roll. Place the end of the edge roll 1/2” from the back leg post with the tail in toward the center of the seat. Staple through the tail into the frame, being careful to line up the outside edge of the edge roll with the edge of the frame.
10. As you approach the corner, draw a line with a permanent marker that is even with the next side.
11. Draw two lines in the shape of a “v” out from the line that’s even with the next side.
12. Cut out the “v” with the knife or razor blade without cutting all the way through the edge roll. Bend the edge roll to turn the corner, and continue stapling. Repeat steps 10–12 for the other corner.
13. When you reach the other leg post, cut off the excess 1/2” from the post and staple it down.
14. Once the edge roll is stapled all the way around, reinforce it with another round of staples by pinching off a small chunk of the edge roll and stapling it to the outside edge of the frame.
15. I’m using a 2” thick, medium-density foam for this seat, but feel free to experiment with different thicknesses to get the look you like best. Using the edge roll as a guide, trace the shape of the seat onto the underside of the foam. Squish the foam down around the posts and make marks around them.
16. Cut 1/2” beyond the mark with a carving knife, to ensure the foam is able to reach the edge of the frame. I’ve left the back of the seat unmarked until I cut out the notches for the posts. Then I’ll put the foam back on the seat, mark the back side and cut off the excess.
17. Attach strips of burlap to the edge of the foam with spray adhesive. The burlap shapes the foam and attaches to the frame, so leave an extra 10” beyond the edge of the foam, so there’s plenty to hold as you staple. I like to cut out the excess burlap where the leg posts go before I put the foam on the seat.
18. To allow the spray adhesive time to dry, go back to the chair and fill in behind the edge roll with several layers of cotton, so there’s not a dip around the edge of the seat.
19. Close your eyes and use your hands to find low and high spots on the surface of the seat. Then place the cotton in and around these areas to make the surface even. Finish off the cotton batting with a full layer that comes to the edge of the seat. If you like a higher crown, repeat step 5 from Dining Chair Do-Over like I’ve done here.
20. Once the adhesive is dry, center the foam on top of the frame, and with the palm of your hand, push down the front middle of the foam and staple the burlap to the front side of the frame. The foam should be rounded, not boxy, when you staple.
21. Pull the foam tightly to the back and staple from the center out across the entire back side of the frame. Be sure that the foam is extending slightly beyond the edge of the frame or edge roll before you staple.
22. Now that the back side is secured all the way across, move to the front and staple the remainder of that side.
23. Repeat steps 20–22 for the right and left sides. Then cut off the excess burlap down to the staples.
24. Next, we’ll cover the seat with Dacron. Determine where your fabric staples to the frame. The Dacron will stop just before your staple line. Lay a piece of Dacron, with a few inches of excess, on top of the foam. Starting with the middle front, split the Dacron layers in half and staple ONLY the bottom layer to the frame.
25. Smooth the Dacron to the back and put in the same release cuts as before to get around the leg posts.
26. Staple down the back edge. Then move on to the right and left sides. Continue splitting the layers as you staple.
27. Cut out excess Dacron in the front corners, around the legs and even with the bottom edge.
1. Always secure the release cut you’re working on with staples before moving onto the next one.
2. Humidity will affect the drying time for spray adhesive, so allow a few extra minutes if it’s raining or you live in a sticky climate.
3. Always use spray adhesive in a well-ventilated area, and do not use spray adhesive if you are pregnant. Get a friend to help!
And just to make you feel far more accomplished, take a look at that top photo; you can now do all of those seats! See you back here next time for the fabric finale!