Today’s Dublin city guide update comes to us from blogger and current Dublin resident Emily Boyle Westbrooks.  Emily moved to Dublin with her Dublin-native husband two years ago and currently works with the Irish Countrywoman’s Association, a woman’s organisation that works on influencing policy for its members, as well as holding crafting, cooking and gardening courses for them.  Today she shares with us the many wonderful shops, restaurants, historical attractions, and pubs this waterside city has to offer.  Thanks Emily for this wonderful update!–Stephanie

CLICK HERE for the full guide after the jump!

Most people (including me, before I moved here) think they have a general idea of what to expect when they’re planning a trip to Dublin: Guinness, pubs, maybe a few castles. Yes, we’ve got all of that, but there’s so much more.

I believe the best way to visit this city is to do certain touristy things (after all, there’s a reason all those people travel from so far to do them!), and a good chunk of things that most tourists don’t do—but should. One of my favorite parts of living in Dublin has been helping our visitors figure out that good mix.

Today, I’m excited to share with you a combination of those historical places I think you shouldn’t miss, as well as some off-the-beaten-track spots that will give you a feel for the real Ireland.

The last few years of recession have been tough on the Irish, but they have made Ireland a much more affordable place to visit – prices have come down, and value has gone up all around. You can find cheap deals on hotels and restaurants, and you’ll find a surge of great artisan products and shops that have sprung up as the impersonal boom-time places have packed up shop.

I hope you enjoy this little tour through Dublin and around the edges! If you’re ever visiting, give me a shout – I love to show off the city I now proudly call home!

History

Dublin has a fascinating history, much of it surrounding being ruled by the English for so long. These are my favorite spots to check out in order to get your bearings with Irish history.

Kilmainham Gaol - Inchicore Road, Kilmainham, Dublin 8

Kilmainham Gaol is one of the largest unoccupied jails in the world. Take the guided tour to learn all about the history of Ireland and its struggle for independence against the British. During the famine, the jail housed over twice its capacity, including many women and children who committed petty crimes simply to have a warm place to stay and hot meals. Unoccupied since the 1920’s, the jail has been the scene of many movies and even a famous U2 music video. (My favorite part is always seeing where the revolutionary Robert Emmet was held – my grandfather was named after him!)

Guinness Brewery - St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8

The Guinness Factory is a staple for the tourist in Dublin. You’ll walk through the process of making Guinness, then get to taste the freshest Guinness in the world from the Gravity Bar. Even if you aren’t a fan of Guinness, the Gravity Bar provides the best view of Dublin.  If you get there as the sun is going down, it’s a  beautiful view of the city all lit up.

Old Jameson Distillery – Bow Street, Smithfield Village, Dublin 7

Another guided tour, this one will take you through the seven stages of making traditional Irish whisky, and you’ll get another sample to warm you for your travels around the city.

Dublin Castle - Dame Street, Dublin 2

Now used for state receptions and presidential inaugurations, Dublin Castle is another wealth of information about Ireland’s and Dublin’s history. With rotating exhibits, as well as State apartments, chapel and heritage center, it’s a crash course in Irish history.

Chester Beatty Library -

The Chester Beatty Library is located in Dublin Castle, and is one of the best museums in Dublin. It’s free to enter, and it has great exhibits with manuscripts, art from around the world and even pages from the Bible from 150 AD.  If the €9 ticket to the Book of Kells seems expensive to you, try this museum – great bang for your buck.

Trinity College - College Green, Dublin 2

You enter Trinity College through stately wrought iron fence giant stone entryway gate and a massivewooden door. It’s really breathtaking. Trinity College houses the Book of Kells, but you really shouldn’t miss the historic Long Room Library, two stories of floor to ceiling bookcases housing some of the oldest volumes in the country.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral - St. Patrick’s Close, Dublin 8

St. Patrick’s Cathedral is an imposing, grand building that just begs for you to come inside. The gardens are beautifully manicured, and the enormous stained glass windows are awe-inspiring. The building dates from 1220 and is still used for weekly worship and many local college graduations.

Christ Church Cathedral – Christchurch Place, Dublin 8

Just up the hill from St. Patrick’s Cathedral is the Christ Church Cathedral, an equally imposing structure, built even earlier in 1030. Make sure you take a visit down to the crypt in the basement for fascinating (and slightly creepy) exhibits about the museum.

Phoenix Park -

Phoenix Park is situated in the center of Dublin, and has a whole range of activities for visitors to check out. You can rent bikes to explore the almost 1,800 acres, and stop at the recently updated Dublin Zoo, see the herds of wild deer, or see the Irish President’s residence, Uras an Urachtarain. The only ambassador to Ireland whose residence is inside the park is the American ambassador – and the residence was modeled after the White House. Proof of the special relationship between the two countries.

Museums

Keep in mind most of Dublin’s museums are closed on Mondays. And museum shops are always the nicest – don’t forget to spend a few minutes, especially in the National Gallery’s shop. Just lovely!

For art, both older and more contemporary, check out Ireland’s two most prominent Art museums:

National Gallery of Ireland - Merrion Square West, Dublin 2

In addition to the range of artworks housed here, I like it for the café – lovely coffees and hot chocolate – perfect if it’s a little chilly out!

Irish Museum of Modern Art – Royal Hospital, Kilmainham, Dublin 8

These museums will help you get a broad picture of Ireland’s culture and character, as well as its history as a creative nation.

Dublin Writers Museum – 18 Parnell Square North , Dublin 1

Just north of the City Centre, the Dublin Writers Museum is home to the letters, books and personal items of some of Ireland’s most famous literary figures – Joyce, Yeats and Wilde among them.

National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts and History – Collins Barracks, Benburb Street, Dublin 7

There are several National Museums of Ireland, but I think this one is especially cool. For a range of exhibits, from weaponry to silver to ceramics, this museum will give you a great sense of Ireland’s talented crafters throughout history.

Croke Park Experience - St. James’s Avenue, Fairview

Even if you’re not the sporty type, this small museum is essential if you want to understand part of Ireland’s obsession with their sports. I’ve never seen a country so obsessed (in the best possible way, of course!).

On a summer day, try to catch a Gaelic football match to get the real Croke Park experience. Wear light blue to support the Dubs, and have a few pints at Maher’s Pub, Fairview, before the match. You’ll definitely find some locals who can explain the rules of the game to you. The only cheer you’ll need to know: Come on those boys in blue!

National Print Museum - Garrison Chapel, Beggars Bush Barracks, Dublin 4

This museum will teach you all about the history of printmaking and all things paper in Ireland. If you time it right, you can also take workshops here on printmaking, bookmaking, calligraphy, linocutting and much more. Most workshops are two days and the class size is limited to fewer than 10 students!

National History Museum

The National History Museum is a neat spot to visit, especially if you’ve got kids in tow. Known to some Dubliners (everyone seeme to have to have visited on field trips in primary school) as the Dead Zoo, the National History Museum has taxidermy animals from all over Ireland as well as around the world.

Destinations – Outside Dublin, but close enough for an afternoon excursion!

Dublin’s City Centre is full of great restaurants, museums and historic places, but you can get an even better sense of Ireland if you venture to the outskirts. Here’s a selection of places you can head for a morning or afternoon excursion, and feel like you’ve left the city altogether!

Howth – 20 minute Dart train ride from City Centre

Howth is my absolute favorite place to take our visitors. We never let our friends and family leave without a trip up to the cliffs and a taste of the fresh fish.

Howth is a picturesque fishing village on a peninsula just north of Dublin City Centre with a beautiful pier, seals to feed in the harbor, and some of the freshest fish around. On a dry day, pack your sneakers or hiking boots, and take the cliff hike from Howth Village around the peninsula – a couple hours hiking, but one of the most beautiful views this side of the Atlantic. You won’t want to forget your camera! Or for a more leisurely afternoon, get a table at Aqua Restaurant at the end of the Howth Pier, and gaze out at the panoramic views of Howth Harbor.

Trim Castle – Trim, County Meath, 40 minute drive from City Centre, or via Bus Eireann

Trim Castle is another must on our list for visitors. It’s a friendly town and the castle tour is one of the best in the country with the nicest tour guides I’ve ever found. Trim Castle is the largest Anglo-Norman castle in the country, but known to the world as the location for the filming of the movie Braveheart. Take a tour of the castle’s stronghold with their expert tour guides, and learn all about the settling of Ireland on the River Boyne and the different tricks the builders used to keep their castle safe from intruders. Then take a walk through the lovely town of Trim, and stop at Brogan’s Hotel and Bar for a Sunday carvery dinner that rivals any in Ireland.

Avoca Flagship Store – Kilmacanogue, County Wicklow

While you can get a quick fix of Ireland’s famed Avoca Handweavers just off Grafton Street, you’ll get the full Avoca treatment if you venture just 30 minutes south of the City Centre. Set on the old Jameson estate, Avoca Headquarters in Kilmacanogue offers two cafes, a food hall and deli, a nursery, and a retail space where you’ll find Avoca’s famous scarves, sweaters, and lots of traditional Irish home goods.

Glendalough – 40 minute drive south of City Centre

Glendalough, in the Wicklow Mountains, is a gorgeous destination for hiking, fishing, walking and, for some intrepid visitors, swimming. Some trails will give you an incredible view of Dublin down below. There are two lakes in Glendalough, making it one of the most visited spots outside of Dublin.

Malahide Castle – 30 minute Dart train ride from the City Centre

Malahide Castle, set on 250 acres of park on the seaside, was a private residence until 1975! Now you can tour the inside, see how a family decorated their castle, and then grab a bite in their gourmet café in the castle’s basement. A popular place for locals to stroll, you might even catch a glimpse of the peacocks that roam the grounds.

Johnny Fox’s Pub – Glencullen, County Dublin, 35 minute drive from the City Centre

Johnny Fox’s is a famous evening excursion on a visit to Dublin. The highest pub in Ireland, book in for a show, complete with traditional Irish Ceili dancing, bands and singers. Spend the day in Glendalough and then head to Johnny Fox’s for dinner and a show.

Enniskerry –

Just a 30-minute bus ride from the City Centre on the Number 44 bus, Enniskerry is a quaint, small town at the base of the Wicklow Mountains.  Get to Enniskerry and you’ve got lots of options for walks, hikes. From spring, enjoy the Powerscourt Waterfall and Gardens, or take one of the walks – try Lover’s Leap for a romantic hike.

Pubs

In Dublin, and across Ireland, there’s a pub on every corner. In fact, in most small towns there are more pubs than businesses lining the main streets. Here are a handful of authentic, gritty pubs where you’re guaranteed to feel like a real Dubliner.

The Stag’s Head - 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2

Just off Grafton Street, The Stag’s Head is as authentic as pubs come in Ireland.

Gravedigger’s Pub – 1 Prospect Square, Glasnevin, Dublin 9

It doesn’t get more gritty than Gravedigger’s. Nestled in a housing estate, it’s best you have a taxi driver bring you there or you’ll most definitely get lost. The scene of many Irish movies, order a pint of Guinness (And never, ever ask for a drinks menu in a pub. Ever.) and soak up the local feel.

The Bull and Castle – Christchurch, Dublin

For a slightly younger vibe, check out the Bull and Castle for good music, Irish micro-brews and a vast selection of beers from around the world.

Ginger Man Pub – 40 Fenian Street, Dublin 2

A hopping pub, popular with Trinity students and professors.

The Cobblestone Pub – 77 King Street North, Smithfield

Legend has it the Cobblestone Pub has a direct line from the Guinness Brewery, making it the freshest pint outside the brewery itself.

Gibneys – Malahide

Gibneys in Malahide is a sprawling pub with low ceilings and a loyal clientele. Stop in on a weeknight for a quiet pint, or on the weekend for some traditional Irish music.

Restaurants

When we’re talking about food in Dublin, you’ll find tons of variety. There’s been a surge of new ethnic eateries in the last several years, and there’s always the traditional pub grub.  Many of restaurants around Dublin do great early bird of pre-theater meals with a remarkable number of choices. Here are my top five favorites as well as a whole bunch more!

Faves:

1. Exchecquer - 3-5 Exchecquer Street, Dublin 2

Exchecquer does great food all day and night, but it’s my favorite spot to go for dessert and a glass of wine. They have a chocolate platter that’s just unreal. It’s big enough to share with a friend or two, but you really won’t want to.

2. Stagedoor Café – 11-12 East Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2

Delicious paninis, cosy atmosphere and friendly staff. They do hot chocolate with mini marshmallows in a giant mug.

3. Hugo’s Winebar - 6 Merrion Row, Dublin 2

Just off Stephen’s Green, Hugo’s does flavorful food (try their pork loin with apricot filling) and their staff can help you pair it with the perfect glass of wine.

4. Fallon & Byrne –

Fallon & Byrne is great for any occasion – their pre-theatre dinner menu is delicious and great value; their food hall is a great stop for a quick sandwich on beautiful, homemade bread with fresh, local ingredients. And their wine cellar staff can give you recommendations for whatever you’re looking for.

5. Café en Seine – 40 Dawson Street, Dublin 2

Café en Seine has a great atmosphere, food and décor no matter what day or time you visit. But try their Sunday Jazz Brunch from noon to 5 every week.

More Great Spots

Dada – 45 South William Street, Dublin 2

Yummy Moroccan food in a restaurant decorated beautifully with Moorish flair. On Sunday nights, they have live Moroccan music with tapas and sangria.

Yamamori – South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2

Sushi, sashimi and lots of different noodle dishes. Look out for their Bento deals for both lunch and dinner – great value!

Boulevard Café – 27 Exchecquer Street, Dublin 2

Exchecquer Street is lined with lovely cafes and restaurants, and this one is top notch. Their early bird dinner special (only €17) has lots of choices, and their food is all sourced locally.

Cornucopia – 19/20 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2

Cornucopia is a vegetarian restaurant with a great reputation for flavorful vegetarian options even meat lovers would enjoy! They serve breakfast all week long. Make sure you try the blueberry pancakes – gorgeous!

Keogh’s Café –

Great spot for scones and sandwiches if you need a quick bite before heading up Grafton Street for a bit of shopping,

Mario’s Restaurants – Sandymount Green, Dublin 4, 103 Terenure East, Dublin 6,  or Ranelagh Village, Dublin 6

Three different options on the south side of the city for Mario’s great Italian food. Stop in Ranelagh, Terenure or Sandymount for a whole range of Italian food including over 14 different kinds of pizza. Try the Whole Shebang Pizza –like the name says, it’s got a little of everything!

Zen Chinese – 89 Upper Rathmines Road, Rathmines, Dublin 6

Traditional Sichuan Chinese food with a great atmosphere just on the south side of the city, and boasts the only Michelin starred Chinese restaurant in Dublin. Worth a visit!

The Yacht – 73 Clontarf Road, Dublin 3

Rent a bicycle in the City Centre and cycle up to Clontarf – the biking path runs along the coast all the way to Sutton. Stop in at The Yacht, a pub/restaurant that does a great carvery lunch on Sundays.

The Capital Lounge – 18/19 Lower Stephen’s Street, Dublin 2

Great spot for late-night cocktails when you’ve had it with the Guinness!

Solas Bar – 31 Wexford Street, Dublin 2

Solas just got a great review in the New York Times. It’s a good bet for a night out with an award-winning cocktail menu.

Sentosa Art Café – 91 Ranelagh Road, Dublin 6

If you have a little work to do on your trip, Sentosa is a cosy café with free wireless and great coffee.

Butlers Chocolate Cafés -

With locations around Dublin, Butlers Chocolate Cafes are a perfect spot to stop in and warm up with a cup of their decadent hot chocolate – made with fresh Irish milk and their homemade chocolate fudge sauce.

Insomnia Coffee Shops –

Great cheap and cheerful deals on any hot drink and a muffin or scone (€3.50) or any hot drink and a sandwich (€5) and they’ll grill them for you – yum!

Green 19 - 19 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2

With most main courses no more than €10, this is a great restaurant if you’re on a budget – but you won’t sacrifice taste and flavor. Their Szechuan Spiced Lamb is always a good choice.

Darwins – 80 Aungier Street, Dublin 2

Known around Dublin as the place to get a good steak. And sometimes you just need a good steak.

Brasserie Sixty6 - 66-67 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2

Neat décor, great pre-theater deal and unusual options. If you find them on Facebook, they’ve got super deals almost every week!

Shanahan’s on the Green - 119 Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2

A self-described “American style steak house and seafood” that’s pricey, but elegant. And make sure you take a spin in JFK’s old rocking chair in the lobby, which they even call the Oval Office.

Alexis Bar and Grill - 17/18 Patrick’s Street, Dun Laoghaire, Dublin

Just a short ride on the Dart train out to Dun Laoghaire (pronounced Done Leary), Alexis has a lovely patio where you can try their four course Midweek Tasting menu for just €25 with a glass of wine. Then walk it off with a stroll on the amous Dun Laoghaire pier.

Poppies Café – The Square, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow

Traditional, Irish home cooking. Try the Beef in Guinness Pie – very authentic. For something sweet, try the rhubarb crumble.

Afternoon Tea  has been and will always be a lovely Irish tradition. You’ll find it at most hotels around the country, but here are a few to try:

Shelbourne Hotel – 27 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2

With four restaurants and lounges, the Shelbourne is a place Dubliners like to see and be seen. Stop into their lobby lounge for tea and a biscuit, and a little people watching. Last time I was there, I saw President Clinton and his Secret Service entourage.

Art Tea at the Merrion - The Merrion Hotel, Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2

These desserts are almost too beautiful to eat and served on their gorgeous fine china. The high end of afternoon tea, but worth the splurge.

Queen of Tarts – Cow’s Lane, Dame Street, Dublin 2

Teeny, cosy café that serves delicious quiches and savory tarts along with the sweetest homemade desserts. Queen of Tarts also does great lunches with beautiful, leafy green salads.

Burritos have just made it to Dublin and there are great burrito places popping up all over. And thank goodness – good Mexican food is hard to find in Ireland.  Try this one – Boojum Mex, Milennium Walkway, Dublin 1

We haven’t quite got the fro-yo craze, but milkshakes are another trend on the rise in Dublin. This one is just outside the main gate to Trinity College: Shakes Milkshake Bar, 15 College Green, Dublin 2.

Sale e Pepe – The Diamond, Main Street, Malahide

Malahide, just north of Dublin on the coast, has lots of great restaurants. Try Sale e Pepe for pasta or fresh fish and chips.

Shopping

Grafton Street –

Grafton Street is Dublin’s high street, with all the major chain stores. A/Wear, River Island, H&M, Topshop are all on or near Grafton Street. It’s a pedestrian street where you’ll find buskers (street performers) nearly every day of the week. You’ll also find cute boutiques and big flower stalls in addition to the big name stores.

Industry - Smock Alley, Essex Street West, Temple Bar

Vanessa Mac Innes has curated her lovely store, Industry, with all sorts of industrial items from lighting to wall hangings to furniture and accessories. She even does prop hiring – an uncommon find in Dublin.

Fuse Interiors - 64 Lower Mount Street, Dublin 2

Check out Fuse for vintage furniture and accessories finds with a slightly off-beat feel.

Romany Stone -The Tap, Kilbride, County Wicklow

Romany Stone is a “destination lifestyle shop” that sells Anthropologie-style furniture and accessories, and it has a nice, cozy coffee shop as well!

Kling – 1 Blooms Lane, Dublin 1

Kling is a Spanish chain, and this is their first store in Ireland. They really pretty clothing, shoes and accessories at very reasonable prices. Their spring collection is lovely – pretty pastel hues and feminine trims.

Brown Thomas –

Brown Thomas is one of Dublin’s luxury department stores – started in 1849, you’re still greeted by a man in a waistcoat and top hat! Brown Thomas houses designer brands like Chanel and Cartier.

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre -59 South William Street, Dublin 2

Powerscourt houses over 40 shops from antiques to art to clothing and home furnishings. You could spend hours wandering through the old stone building set just a few blocks from Grafton Street. Check out Article, just opened in 2010, it has beautiful tableware, prints and other home accessories. Also make sure to check out Rubanesque for ribbons and other trimmings, as well as The Loft, on the top floor of the Powerscourt Centre, full of vintage clothing and jewelry.

O’Hagan Home – 5-7 The Mall, Donnybrook, Dublin 4

Upscale furniture shop that’s just opened on the city’s south side. Upscale design, but also upscale prices.

Retrospect – Unit 2, Cow’s Lane, Templebar, Dublin 2

Great new shop full of vintage and unique home furnishings, clocks, mirrors, lamps and sofas. Check out their selection of vintage tableware – might make a nice souvenir of your trip.

Logistics

Getting Around

Dart – The Dart is Dublin’s version of a subway, but above ground and more like a commuter train. There are stations across the city, but it primarily runs north to south.

Luas – If you can’t get where you’re going on the Dart, look at the Luas lines. The Luas is Dublin’s tram line that runs inland through the city and out to some of the surrounding neighborhoods.

Buses – Dublin’s bus system is extensive and will get you just about anywhere you need to go. If you’re looking to travel up or down the River Liffey, look for the 90-bus.

Bus Eireann – Bus Eireann is Ireland’s version of Greyhound and has extensive lines throughout the country. It can easily get you out to Trim or even out into some very rural areas.

Taxis – There’s no shortage of taxis throughout the city and if you can manage, try to get an Irish taxi driver who can give you the commentary and tour as you’re making your way to your destination.

Rental Cars – If you’re renting a car in Dublin, make sure you get a GPS. You’ll be lost without it – Dublin isn’t on a grid system, and you’ll have a hard time finding street signs in most places. If you ask for directions, make sure you ask for landmarks along the way.

Rental Bicycles – You’ll find the Dublin rental bicycles all around the city and they’re great value.  Pay €10 for a year’s membership, or simply buy a 3-day pass for just €2. Just make sure you remember to cycle on the opposite side of the road!

Where to Stay

Hotels – If you want to be within walking distance of most of the museums,             history and shopping, you can stay at a hotel in the City Centre. Here are a few             options:

The Shelbourne - 27 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2

The Merrion Hotel - Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2

Grand Canal Hotel - Ballsbridge, Dublin 4

Bewley’s Hotel Ballsbridge - Merrion Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4

Jury’s Inn Christchurch - Christchurch Place, Dublin 8

Bed and Breakfast – To get a feel for what it’s like to really live in Dublin, I’d try staying at a bed and breakfast; most are located in the suburb neighborhoods only a few minutes train or bus from the City Centre. And make sure you take the full Irish breakfast at least one of the mornings – rashers, black and white pudding, sausages, eggs, toast and grilled tomatoes – but don’t go looking for pancakes and French toast, you won’t find any!

Clontarf – On the north side of the city, Clontarf is full of old brick, Georgian houses full of character.

Annagh House - Right on the seafront, you can walk along the walking path up the seafront, and blend right in with the commuters heading to and from work every day.

Sanctuary Cove - Another Clontarf bed and breakfast right on the seafront, within walking distance of Dollymount Beach, St. Anne’s Park.

White House -And yet another Clontarf bed and breakfast right on the water, check out their website for great photos of the view from their picturesque spot!

Sandymount

Ariel House – Just steps from Lansdowne Road Stadium and yet in the hear of a beautiful Southside neighborhood.

Oak Lodge – In the lovely Pembroke Park, the Oak Lodge is just steps from Embassy Row.

Glenogra House

Weather

There’s no use in trying to predict the Irish weather. It could be sunny and clear any time of the year, and it could be raining cats and dogs at any time of the year. As a general rule, in the summer, it’s milder, but never as hot as Americans would understand summer to be. And in the winter, it can be raw and cold, hovering around freezing or climbing up into the 40’s. No matter the season, you’ll want pants, not shorts, and your best bet is lots of layers. Of course, don’t forget a rainproof jacket and an umbrella, just in case.

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