entertaining by 29

in the kitchen with: marjorie taylor’s gougères


Last year, when I returned from Paris and Maison-Objet, I was in the mood for a lemon tart, and Marjorie Taylor of The Cook’s Atelier in Beaune, France, delivered the perfect recipe. This week, upon my return from Paris, I am craving something French again, and yes, we have another recipe by Marjorie for a very French snack: gougères! These are “cheese puffs” for lack of a better description, but don’t think junk food. Think the perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine. In fact, that’s how Marjorie usually has hers, with some saucisson and a glass of Pinot Noir or cremant! Just a note, if you aren’t too good with a pastry bag, like me, or you’re unsure of what the dough should look like when it’s at the right point, Marjorie offers classes at her atelier in Beaune, but in a pinch, you can check out YouTube and watch one of the tutorials uploaded there. — Kristina

About Marjorie: Marjorie is the cook behind the cooking school, The Cook’s Atelier, in Beaune, France. The Cook’s Atelier promotes sustainable France through hands-on cooking classes, market tours and field trips to local artisan producers. Each year, a portion of the proceeds from The Cook’s Atelier are contributed directly to organizations that support small farms, environmental literacy and sustainable food. In 2010, Marjorie helped support the efforts of Growing Gardens in Portland, Oregon, which plants gardens in the yards of limited-income families so they can experience first-hand the value of eating fresh, local and seasonal food.

*Click here to check out more French food goodness (including tasty gougères) in Anne’s Paris video with David Lebovitz

CLICK HERE for the full recipe after the jump!

Gougères
Makes about 4 dozen gougères

Just a couple notes on the preparation: Be sure to have all your ingredients ready to go when you start the recipe, and be sure to use good quality Gruyère cheese. These are best served warm. If necessary, you can reheat them in a low oven for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup water
  • 7 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 and 1/2 teaspoons sea salt
  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 4 to 5 large eggs
  • 1 1/4 cups grated Gruyère
  • freshly ground white pepper for seasoning

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 450º F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. In a medium saucepan, bring the water, butter and salt and to a boil. Add the flour all at once, reduce the heat to medium and mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together and forms a ball and the excess moisture has evaporated. Continue to cook and stir for a full 2 minutes to dry the mixture. Whisk one of the eggs in a bowl and set aside. Beat the remaining eggs into the mixture, one at a time, until completely combined and the batter has a smooth, silky texture. If it is too stiff, beat enough of the reserved beaten egg into the dough until it is shiny and just falls from the spoon. Mix in 3/4 cup Gruyère cheese, and adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper.

3. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a 3/8-inch pastry tip with the gougère batter. Pipe into 1-tablespoon-sized rounds on the baking sheet, leaving about 2 inches between the gougères, as the mixture will spread during baking.

4. Sprinkle the top of each gougère with about 1/2 teaspoon of the remaining grated cheese and bake for 7 to 8 minutes, or until they puff and hold their shape. Reduce the heat to 350º F, and bake for an additional 20 to 25 minutes. When the gougères are done, they should be a light golden-brown color. When you break one open, it should be hollow; the inside should be cooked but still slightly moist. Let the gourgères cool slightly before removing from the baking sheet and serve warm.

Food photography by Kristina Gill. All dishes by Christiane Perrochon.

Why Marjorie Chose This Recipe
Gougères are from the Burgundy region of France and [are] often served at a wine tasting. They are perfect as an apéritif with a chilled glass of crémant, the region’s sparkling wine.

Portrait by Jen Altman

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29 Comments

Katie

It’s like the classy version of a popover! Leave it to the French. ;) I might stick with popovers, since they don’t require a pastry bag…but might consider giving my mini-muffin pan a go with these babies!

Katie Truelove

I once took a French cooking class where we made these and they told us we needed a special pastry oven (which, I’m guessing, will never be a part of my kitchen;) so I am thrilled to know I have a shot at making them on my own– they are so delicious!!

leilani

yay! I spent last year on exchange in Dijon, which isn’t far from Beaune – these bring back so many memories, and the recipe is super! merci bien d*s!

dee

I’ve made these many times (using Ina Garten’s recipe). You do not need a pastry bag–just scoop out a spoonful of dough.

Biscuit

I’m so excited to make these! I ate them in France and have pined for them ever since! Yum! Thank you! Thank you!

Jane

actually, this is a brazilian snac, called “pão de queijo” or, literally, “cheese bread”.

Tarsila

I agree with Jane, the “cheese bread” is very popular in Brazil and it’s also a traditional brazilian recipe for breakfast or snacks

Kristina

@dee – I guess you can use a plastic bag and cut the corner off… But it was SO HARD for me to get the dough in the bag, I tried a tray with the bag (looked like I tried to write something in arabic) and a small spoon… Both worked, but one tray was nicer than the other. I think you can get a smoother surface with the bag, but maybe that’s just an impression. HOWEVS, they were both good to eat.

isabella

I was gonna say “pão de queijo” as well! How I miss them. This recipe looks simpler though. And yummy!

Helen

I know this recipe, it’s pao de queijo! pao de queijo! Brazilian cheese bread!!!!

theresa

Totally pao de queijo! Just replace the flour with Tapioca Flour, especially if you want a gluten-free version. :)

Vania Pinto

Helen and Theresa are absolutely right! Tapioca flour (polvilh) is the difference, as well as cured “Minas” chesse. And it’s really a must, always present as breakfast tables in Minas Gerais, with coffee and milk, or as a snack, sometimes filled with crispy bacon for a beer…

Vania Pinto

Just a reminder – for our Cheese Rolls, never, ever bake in a microwave oven – they will turn into pumice! Only traditional oven please!

RecipeRelay

@Dee – I was wondering about using a spoon – thanks for mentioning it. These look absolutely delicious – like a tiny cheesy popover

margaux

SInce Im’ adverse to the pastry bag notion, I’ll try my luck in adding Gruyere to a puff pancake in cast iron skillet recipe. I’m pretty much certain that the addition of cheese is always a good thing ;-))

Kristin

These are such the trendy item on the menus at all the gourmet restaurants in my town! Here, a couple of places add a few light herbs like chives or parsley for a little color and more dimension.

You can totally use a spoon (or two to get the dough off since it is quite sticky) to shape these, they will just be more “organic” in form. I believe I have also used a cookie press (probably not easier to get the dough in, but easy to portion if you aren’t used to a bag) with a large plain tip in lieu of a pastry bag.

Sticky Penguin

Those photos are just gorgeous… I made my first batch of gougeres just last week, and they were ever so more-ish. Definitely something to get added to high rotation when having friends over (bonus points for being vegetarian, too). For anybody with my lack of adeptness with a pastry bag, they also work well made with small balls of the dough scooped with a couple of spoons (or fingers, for those who don’t mind a mess!).

louise

oh my goodness! my mother used to make these at xmas when we were little but when we looked for the recipe recently it was no where to be found! thankyou so much for sharing I have a family gathering coming up soon and these will definitely be included :)

Emily S.

It is pao de queijo! We ate them like crazy during a summer in Minas Gerais and I’ve been craving them ever since. Thank you for the recipe–it will bring back sweet memories of our time there.

Katharina

Gorgeous!
I’ve been looking for a recipe for a while.
I’ll definitely have to try these for brunch this weekend!

david renó

i was gonna say it’s “pão de queijo”, but i guess a lot brazilians came here first. :)

it’s great with black coffee.

claire

My grand’ma used to make these gougères, hmm such a nice souvenir…
I’ll try your recipe and hopefully the taste of childhood will come back with it :)

Ingrid

Im a german born in brazil and living in canada. Love “pao de queijo”. Despite similarities to those brazilian cheese puffs, those are not the same. Gougeres were created around 18 century in france and were made of choux pastry and not a copy of Minas pao de queijo. Anyway, it’s equally delicious. Thank you for sharing!

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