illustration by julia rothman
today’s city guide comes swedish-american art director & stylist joanna swanson. joanna is based in sweden and today will be sharing her local’s guide to shopping, eating, entertainment, lodging and site-seeing in stockholm! i’ve been dying to visit stockholm for so long now that i’ve becoming something of an internet stalker with the way i follow people’s flickr streams who’ve recently visited. the colors, the homes, the light- it’s too beautiful for words. and i’m so thankful to have joanna’s guide so i can plan my imaginary trip in my head. if you’re lucky enough to be visiting soon, i hope you’ll take joanna’s tips with you. thanks, joanna!
*each listing has a link listed, but for some reason they’re not underlined in red. i’m trying to figure out why they’re not highlighting as links, but in the meantime, they’re there. just roll your mouse over the shop/place name and you’ll see the link works (sorry!)
CLICK HERE for the full guide after the jump!
The bohemian chic part of town mixed together with yuppies and families. Sofo (south of Folkungagatan) around Nytorget is my favorite area of Söder. Here you will find lots of second hand shops and independent fashion boutiques as well as restaurants. Also you will not want to miss Götgatsbacken for more great shops and Brunogallerian.
ÄTA, DRICKA & DANSA (eat, drink & dance)
Mosebacke: A must with one of the best views of Stockholm. This night club and bar offers a wide range of great concerts. During the summer months you can enjoy a glass of wine on the huge terrace as the sun sets over Stockholm. Weekends they serve brunch with live jazz music.
Address: Mosebacketorg 3.
Urban Deli: I love this grocery store and restaurant in one. The packaging is stunning and the food delicious.
Address: Nytorget 4.
Louie Louie: Fun 50’s style rock café, clothing and record store in one. Lots of tattoos, rockabilly hairstyles and loud music. They serve good soups and sandwiches. Sometimes they even serve a vegan version of Swedish meatballs – a classic.
Address: Bondegatan 13
Good Store: 100 % Vegetarian grocery store where 95% of everything is stock is organic. You will find everything from tofu to organic diapers.
Address: Skånegatan 92
Nyfiken Gul: If you are in the mood for a BBQ then this is the place for you. Nyfiken Gul is a café, restaurant and bar located on the outskirts of Södermalm right on the water. Have a seat under the trees and select food from a varied menu. During the summer months you can enjoy live music.
Address: Hammarby Slussväg 15.
Hermans: Organic and vegetarian buffet. The good food and a breathtaking view of the city.
Address: Fjällgatan 23b.
Fyra Knop: The world’s coziest, or at least Stockholm’s coziest, creperie in true French sprit. With wooden benches, ropes and life vests creating a marine-inspired decor. You will want to sit her for hours on end.
Address: Svartstensgatan 4.
Bakverket: Breakfast your favorite meal? Breakfast at 4pm? Bakverket serves breakfast all day long. Everything is made with love and simply divine.
Address: Bondegatan 59.
Sardin: A tiny Tapas restaurant with a mix of Swedish and Spanish food.
Address: Skånegatan 79
Samba Sushi: One of the best sushi restaurants in Stockholm – hands down.
Address: Götgatan 28
Noodle House: A Vietnamese restaurant constantly striving towards expanding their kitchen.
Address: Götgatan 62
Marie Laveau: Restaurant, bar and night club with good food, great drinks and nice prices.
Adress: Hornsgatan 66.
Back A Yard: A Jamaican restaurant with a real at home in Jamaica feeling. Great food and good vibe.
Address: Folkungagatan 128
Judit & Bertil: Simple and good food at great prices. Good bar as well.
Address: Bergsundstrand 38.
Coffice: A coffee shop where you can meet lots of Swedish freelancers. It is a a coffee shop and freelance office space in one.
Address: Tjärhovsgatan 5.
Bio Rio: An old movie theater with nice interior design, good movies and fun events such as quiz nights and movie with brunch.
Address: Hornstullsstrand 3
Café Copacabana: Great little coffee shop located right next to Bio Rio.
Address: Hornstulls Strand 3.
Debaser: The best pop and rock place in Stockholm. Been hosting great legends as Bob Dylan and The Strokes as well as smaller independent bands.
Addresses: Slussen, Karl Johans Torg 1. and Medis, Medborgarplatsen 8.
Trädgården: Just re-opened in May at a new location. I have not been there yet but I think that this bar / restaurant / club will be the place to be during the summer months.
Address: Hammarby Slussväg 2( (under Skanstull bridge)
LÅT OSS SHOPPA (Let’s shop)
Hattbaren: Yupp that is it! Hattbaren is a bar of hats. Why not spend hours trying on hats? The staff is delightful.
Address: Götgatan 39
Tjallamalla: Could be one of the best stores in the world. Clothing and accessories by over 250 designers and the stomping ground for new and upcoming talent. Upcoming stars mixed in with established designer such as minimarket, Carin Wester and Rodebjer
Address: Bondegatan 46
Grandpa: A chic shop filled with hard-to-find vintage furniture and clothing from designers such as Whyred, Hope, and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair.
Address: Fridhemsgatan 43 (Kungsholmen) and Södermannagatan 21.
Papercut: A small store that sells movies, books and magazines. Spend hours browsing the shelves.
Address: Krukmakargatan 24
Butik Under: A small little shop filled with vintage and unused children’s clothing from the 70’s, old puzzles, games and much much more. They also sell clothing from young up and coming designers.
Address: Tjärhovsgatan 19
Judits Second Hand: Great second hand shop with a selection of clothing and accessories from the 50’s -70’s as well as modern trends. Judits also has an antique store on Krukmakargatan.
Address: Hornsgatan 75
Lisa Larsson: Second hand shop that encourages customers to mix both vintage and new as well as the price tags on your finds. This so that you can create your own individual style.
Address: Boindegatan 48
Tiny Masters: Tiny shop with unusual jewelry presented in a unexpected way. You will find jewelry made of Fairtrade and environmentally friendly gold.
Address: Grindgatan 29
Beyond Retro: Vintage clothing for people obsessed with fashion. Beyond Retro’s staff consists of musicians, actors, designers, tailors and more making up of a very creative environment.
Address: Åsögatan 144 and Drottninggatan 77 (City)
Ki Ki: A Japanese design boutique where you can find cute little presents and such. As you walk into the store you are handed a cup of green tea.
Address: Renstiernas Gata 41.
Bondens egen Marknad (Farmers Market): Buy flowers and vegetables directly from local farmers.
Address: Katarina bangata
Konst-ig: Stockholms best book store when it comes to design and art books. I always bring my design friends from New York here when they visit.
Address: Åsögatan 124
TITTA & GÖR (see & do)
Fotografiska: In May 2010 Fotografiska opened its doors. The museum is a new meeting point for contemporary photography. I have not been there yet but cannot wait to head over and see their current exhibitions of Vee Speers as well as Annie Leibovitz.
Address: Stadsgårdshamnen 22
I decided to merge the 3 above areas together since they are within walking distance of each other. There are a lot of big museums in the area as well as great restaurants and posh shopping. Around Stureplan, the heart of Östermalm, is where you will find night life that continues on until the weee hours of the morning at clubs such as Berns, Rose, Spy Bar and Hell’s Kitchen. If you are visiting in the summer you might want to bring your sunglasses with you out. The sun rises very early during the summer months so you will probably want them by the time you head home. And as for shopping you will want to head down, Biblioteksgatan, Birger Jarlsgatan, and Grev Turegatan.
ÄTA, DRICKA & DANSA (eat, drink & dance)
Restaurang B.A.R. (Blasieholmens Akvarium & Restaurang): Good food with a laid back vibe. Sundays they offer a a variety of different bbq squares such as salmon och scallops – delicious!
Address: Blasiehomsgatan 4a
Restaurang Hjerta (heart): This great restaurant is located in a former shipyard that has been refurnished to keep the maritime-touch. During the summer months they will have an extensive outdoor seating by the water. Hjerta (an alternative Swedish spelling to heart) opened on Valentines day 2010, “We cook food and serve wine with a lot of heart, and we do it with a twist”.
Address: Slupskjulsvägen 28 B, Skeppsholmen.
Gården Bar & Grill: A 9000 Square foot (900 square meter) outdoor restaurant, bar and lounge seating 450 people premiered early spring 2010. When the sun is out Gården will be packed. The food is supposted to be out of this world.
Address: Skolgården Norra Latin, Norra Bantorget.
Josefinas: If the sun is out then the terrace at Josefinas is the perfect place to lounge after a long walk around Djurgården or the place to hang before a night out.
Address: Galärvarvsägen 10, Djurgården
Zink Grill: Here you can enjoy a continental breakfast, lunch, afternoon tapas and dinner in a French Bistro kind of way. The deserts are heavenly.
Address: Bibloteksgatan 5.
Due Fratelli: Real Italian style pizza. Don’t let the interior design fool you.
Address: Birger Jarlsgatan 95
Rosendals Trädgård (garden): The gardens main purpose is to present organic cultivation to the public. Their plots and greenhouses have a wide range of biodynamically grown vegetables, flowers and herbs. They can be bought in the Garden Shop and used for cooking in the Café. Rosendals Trädgård is an oasis well worth a visit.
Address: Close to Waldemarsudde, Djurgården. See click here for map.
East: I have been a regular at East for 15 years. Good food and party vibe. Try the Tempura roll 2, the “secret sauce” is to die for. And check out the walls…. they change them up from time to time.
Address: Stureplan 13
Pontus: Head down stairs and indulge in melt in your mouth good food or stay upstairs in the bar and feast on some of the best sushi in town. Try the scallop rolls, they are out of this world.
Address: Brunnsgatan 1
Blueberry: One of my favorite places to grab a smoothie or a quick lunch. A few different locations around Stureplan and in NK. The flagship store, on Sibyllagatan, is also a health food store.
Addresses: Sibyllegatan 15, Birger Jarlsgatan 21 and in NK (see malls).
Yogayama: A meeting place for yoga, mindfulness and food that does us well. Yogayama also has a great little shop and amazing spa treatments.
Address: Jungfrugatan 8
Östemalms Saluhall: This food market will have you weak in the knees. The stalls, restaurants and cafés all mix together in this fantastic building. I can spend hours wandering around the different counters planning a meal. Grab a smoothie at Planet Food or try a classic Skagenröra (you just have to try it) at Lisa Elmqvist.
PA & Company: Small intimate restaurant with a fun vibe. Great food! And if you go you have to have the Gino for dessert.
Address: Riddargatan 8.
(Story Hotel’s terrace)
Story Hotel: Eat here, sleep here or both. Whatever you choose you will not be disappointed. As you step into the bar at Story Hotels you might feel like you stepped into a bar in Soho, New York.
Address: Riddargatan 6
Grill: Amazing design and great food with a good vibe. Here you will find a variation of lounge chairs and sofas mixed in with dinner tables, crazy wallpapers and neon lights. A true feast for the design lovers eye as well as the food lover.
Address: Drottninggatan 89
LÅT OSS SHOPPA (let’s shop)
Bondens egen Markand (Farmers Market): Buy flowers, bread and vegetables directly from local farmers.
Address: Tessinparken, Gärdet (they also have one on Söder)
turQuoise: The name explains the shop, everything turquoise or almost everything. Wonderful store filled with warmth. As you walk in you almost feel like you walk into a different India and a smile will grow from ear to ear. Here you will find beautiful things for your home, clothing and accessories.
Address: Malmskillnadsgatan 42
Acne: The flagship store located at Norrmalmstorg is filled with great clothing, shoes, jeans, jeans and jeans.
Address: Norrmalmstorg 2 and Nytorgsgatan 36 (Söder).
Mrs H: This is where fashionistas will find notable designers such as Hervé Léger, Alexander Wang, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Sonia Rykiel.
Address: In Birger Jarls passagen, a few great shops in this short passage that links Norrmalmstorg to Birger Jarlsgatan.
Design House Stockholm: Kitchenware, furniture and china all designed by both well known designers and newcomers.
Address: Smålandsgatan 11.
Asplunds: Contemporary Swedish furniture and carpets – a design lovers dream. Here you will find products designed by some of the greatest Swedish designers.
Address: Sibyllegatan 31.
DIS Inredning: DIS has broken away from typical Swedish design. Here you will find stunning furniture and products to fill your home with from both Swedish and foreign designers.
Address: Humlegårdsgatan 19
Granit: Black, white and grey. Smart storage solutions. Porcelain, glass, kitchen and bathroom products. Granit is a store where you can spend hours planning and organizing your home. Great prices.
Address: See website for stores.
Svensk Tenn: Furniture, textiles, lamps and gifts all designed with bright colors and bold patterns. Here you will find some Josef Frank classics that are and will remain super hot.
Address: Strandvägen 5
Bookbinders Design: Heaven for a notebook lover. Here you will find notebooks, binders, folders, guestbooks, storage and more in wonderful colors and fabrics. Most of the products are produced at their Swedish printing facilities.
Address: Humlegårdsgatan 19 and NK (see website for more locations)
Map Sverige: Inspiring paper store filled from floor to ceiling with colorful paper stock.
Address: Birger Jarlsgatan 23
Les Chambres Stockholm: A new addition! This lifestyle shop offers the latest international fashion as well as art, interior design, books, a café (with amazing cup cakes), a hairdresser and florist. One stop shopping.
Address: Nybrogatan 20
TITTA & GÖR (see & do)
Magasin 3 Konsthall: One of Europe’s leading institutions for contemporary art. See website for current exhibitions.
Address: Frihamnen 3.
Moderna Museet: Stockholms museum of modern art is located out on a tiny, very pretty island in the center of Stockholm. The museum has a great shop with lots of contemporary Swedish design and a great lunch restaurant. See website for current exhibitions.
Arkitekturmuseet (Museum of Architecture): The museum has a permanent exhibition illustrating the most important milestones in Swedish architecture.
Junibacken: An entertainment park for children based on Astrid Lindgrens books. A must if you are traveling with kids. While on Djurgården you might want to check out Skansen (a zoo) as well as the Gröna Lund (an amusement park).
Address: Galärvarvsvägen, Djurgården. Next to Vasamuseet.
Kulturhuset: Located in the center of town. Kulturhuset offers a wide range of activities such as interesting exhibits, reading room, restaurants, playroom and theater.
Address: Sergels torg 3.
Mainly a residential area but it is still filled with trendy and stylish bars, galleries and small little stores.
ÄTA, DRICKA & DANSA (eat, drink & dans)
Robert E´s Choklad (above): If you love chocolate then this chocolate lounge and shop is well worth a visit. And if you are interested why not try a chocolate tasting? Mostly organic.
Address: Odengatan 72.
Coco Vaja: With the best soups in town, coffee to die for and the sweetest staff, Coco Vaja is one of my favorite places to lunch.
Address: St. Eriksgatan 109
Steam: Stockholms best dumplings? I think so. This tiny, tiny little take out restaurant serves steamed dumplings that melt in your mouth. An other one of my favorite places to pick up lunch. Across the street from Coco Vaja.
Address: St. Eriksgatan 118
Caffé Nero: Brunch, lunch, dinnner? Or maybe just a a coffee? Caffé Nero will not disappoint.
Address: Roslagsgatan 4.
Hanoi Bar: Delicious Vietnamese food with easy on the wallet prices.
Address: Birger Jarlsgatan 121.
Sirap: In the mood for brunch? Then head over to Sirap and sin. Maybe on blueberry pancakes?
Address: Surbrunnsgatan 31a.
Ki-mama ramen & sushibar: Noodles and soups that are scrumptious. Don’t let the website fool you. Also check out Ki-mama sushi-bar, some of the best sushi in town.
Address: Birger Jarlsgatan 93 (ramen), Observatoriegatan 13 (sushi)
Kaffeverket: Delicious sandwiches and yummie salads great place for lunch.
Address: St. Eriksgatan 88
Vasastans Ost: Ost means cheese in Swedish. Vasastan is the area. So it goes without saying here you can pick up lots of melt-in-your-mouth cheese. They also serve lunch and have cheese tastings. Head around the corner to Bakery & Spice and pick up some sourdough bread to go with your cheese.
Address: St. Eriksgatan 90
Bakery & Spice: So you have your cheese from Vasastans Ost, now you can pick up your organic sourdough bread to go with it and then head over to Vasaparken and have a pick-nick. The parks is just a 2-3 minute walk away and you can see it from the shop.
Address: Torsgatan 46
Tranan: A classic. Here you can sit upstairs in the dining area and enjoy some fish or head down to the bar and have some Swedish meatballs. Always a good vibe and great food.
Address: Karlbergsvägen 14 (at Odenplan)
Musslan: An other classic. Very small restaurant and bar that always has a good vibe going. Live Dj almost every night after 10pm.
Address: Dalagatan 46
LÅT OSS SHOPPA (let’s shop)
Plezuro: A cute little shop unique clothing and accessories. Johanna, the owner, is very sweet and dedicated.
Address: Rörstrandsgatan 28.
Syster Lycklig: An exciting mix of nick-nacks and furniture, fabric for your home as well as clothing and accessories.
Address: Tegnérgatan 12.
Jascha Loves Designista: The merge of Jascha clothing and Designista resulted in the super cute Jascha Loves Designista. Here you will find a mix of womens clothing and cute design things.
Address: Upplandsgatan 45
Eat! Ekoaffären: All organic grocery store by Jarlaplan.
Address: Tegnérgatan 3
Nunc Inredning: A great little interior design shop with a mix of old and new. You can also shop online.
Address: Vikingagatan 15
TITTA & GÖR (see & do)
Designgalleriet: A great little gallery for design lovers. Here you can see young up and coming designers as well as established. Focusing on fashion, graphics and interiors.
Address: Odengatan 21
There is a few galleries located at Hudviksvallsgatan 8 and around the corner at Hälsingegatan, showcasing Swedish and International contemporary art. Natalia Goldin Gallery, Galleri Nordenhake, Andren-Schiptjenko and Galleri Andersson/Sandström to name a few.
Mainly a residential area but you will find a few cute shops and good restaurants in the area.
ÄTA, DRICKA & DANSA (eat, drink & dans)
M/S Gärdas: A cool boat, restaurant and bar. Located next to Kungsholmen.
Address: Kajplats 466, Norr Mälarstrand.
Kungsholmen: Located by the water and on the water this restaurant offers both a great atmosphere and delicious food. Next to M/S Gärdas.
Address: Kajplats 464, Norr Mälarstrand
Jin & Peeters Dumplings and Chicken Deli: So I love dumplings and if you do as well you will love this place. As well as their Belgian waffles.
Address: Kungsholms Strand 157
Allmänna Galleriet 925 (AG): This restaurant and bar, located in an old industrial warehouse. Is not very easy to find but well worth it. You might hesitate to enter since AG almost shares the same entrance as a porn shop – take a chance. Head up to the second floor for some delicious food and an almost NYC meatpacking vibe. Closed in July.
Address: Kronobergsgatan 37, second floor.
LÅT OSS SHOPPA! (let’s shop)
Grandpa: A chic shop filled with hard-to-find vintage furniture and clothing from designers such as Whyred, Hope, and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair. They also have a little espresso bar.
Address: Fridhemsgatan 43 and Södermannagatan 21 (Söder).
VästermalmsGallerian Address: Fleminggatan / St. Eriksgatan.
GAMLA STAN (the old town)
ÄTA, DRICKA OCH DANSA (eat, drink & dance)
Le Rouge: With plush upholstery and drapery reminiscent of the Baroque period, Le Rouge, is Stockholm’s Moulin Rouge. Sexy and romantic with amazing food and a good atmosphere.
Address: Österlånggatan 17 (bar) & Brunnsgränd 2-4 (restaurant)
Grill Ruby: An American bbq joint. The grilled lobster is um ummm good. Also check out the French Bistro Ruby next door.
Address: Österlånggatan 14
Pontus in the Greenhouse: An other Pontus restaurant. Located by the water Pontus in the Greenhouse is lovely for dinner as well as just a drink after strolling through the old town.
Address: Tullhus 2 – Skeppsbrokajen
LÅT OSS SHOPPA (let’s shop)
Ekovaruhuset: House of Organic. Filled with clothing from Johanna Hofring (store owner), Kuyichi (great organic jeans), John Patrick Organics, Loomstate, Anja Hynynen and more. They also have a store in New York.
Långbro Värdshus: Excellent brunch in a beautiful old house. After your brunch have a long walk in Långbro park. Do book a table, you can do so via the website (boka bord).
Address: Stora mans väg 4, (subway Fruängen).
Landet: Great food and fun vibe. Worth a little subway ride out of the city.
Address: LM Ericssons väg 27, Hägersten (subway Telefonplan)
Kafe Sjöstugan: Cute little café located on the water.
Address: Pipers väg 22, Solna.
Boule & Berså: For a nice relaxed, fun and playful afternoon or evening head out to Boule & Berså. Play a game of Boules and have a beer. Cash is king.
Get there: Take bus 53 from Slussen to the stop Henriksdal (about 6-7min). Walk back towards Danvikstullbron. Take a left at just before the bridge and follow the signs. Phone: 08 641 38 25
LÅT OSS SHOPPA (let’s shop)
Textilcentrum: Fabric, fabric and more fabric.
Järnvägsgatan 56, Sundbyberg
Sickla Köpkvarter Address: Sickla, see website for directions.
TITTA & GÖR (see & do)
Tensta Konsthall: The vision of Tensta Konsthall “To become a model for a culturally innovative and socially engaged international center of contemporary art”. Do check the website to see what exhibitions are up.
Address: Taxigränd 10, Spånga
(Hotel Fabriken Furillen, Fårö, Gotlland)
Skärgården: Stockholms skärgård (archipelago) is one of the most unique, spectacular and beautiful places in the world. With more than 24 000 island, from big to small, some inhabited others not, I feel the archipelago is paradise. So if you visit Stockholm no trip is complete without at least a short excursion out amongst the islands. To best see the islands you need to do so by boat. Some islands to explore are Fjäderholmarna (a short trip), Vaxholm and Sandhamn (further out). For more informations on boats and excursions have a look at Waxholmsbolagets and Visit Skärgården websites.
Gotland: Do you have a few days to spare while you are in Stockholm? If so I would like to recommend taking a short flight from Bromma Airport or the ferry from Nynäshamn to Gotland, the largest island in the Baltic Sea. Gotland offers amazing beaches, shopping, historical sites and Gotlands hästar (ponies). While here you might want to explore Fårön or Gotska Sandön.