entertaining by Grace Bonney 46

in the kitchen with: thomas paul

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This is the last of the series of recipes that Matt and I shot in his studio in the LBC. Matt and I worked together a bit on props for styling before I flew to LA, and when I asked him about macarons, of course I wrote “macaroons”. I told him to pick out two sets of Thomas Paul plates online he thought he could style with “macaroons” and so he did. When I saw he chose brown, I was like “Are you sure??” and Matt said, “Of course!!”. When we went to the store to get “macarons”, I said,”Oh, not these ‘macaroons’, the French ones.” And Matt looked at me with an expressionless face and said, “GIRL, you didn’t say MACARONS! We have to go to Paulette for that!” and I said,”OOOh. No wonder you picked out those brown plates….” So I really must apologize to everyone for the fact that these shots are not styled on the colorful plates that Thomas Paul mentioned (which were not by the way available at the time Matt and I shot these!). The recipe to accompany the macarons was generously provided by Tartlette. Thanks to the whole team that made this happen despite my mistake! -Kristina

CLICK HERE for the full recipes (Macarons and Bittersweet Toffee Ganache), more GORGEOUS pictures, and some words from Thomas about why he loves Macarons (and PB&Js) after the jump…

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Sweet Inspiration by Thomas Paul

I know this section usually contains a recipe from a designer, but the thing is, I don’t really cook. Of course I can boil pasta or make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, my favorite thing in the world to eat. But, please don’t ask me to follow a recipe, I will fall asleep before I even get through reading the list of ingredients required. So I have decided to present a different take on this section. I will talk about a food that has inspired me design-wise.

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Now, food doesn’t usually inspire me, but I have based several designs and collections around this one food in particular. Of course it is a dessert! I don’t know how inspiring a steak, for example, could be unless you are doing some kind of western, bbq-themed print for a tablecloth or something. So, my inspiring desert is called a French macaron. A French macaron is a type of cake, or cookie. It is crisp on the outside and is soft in the middle. It is like a very fancy Oreo, but with a fluffier cookie part, and a softer, more filled middle part. Maybe more like an Oreo double stuff. Macarons also come in a variety of flavors, with the color of the macaroon usually reflecting the flavor of the macaroon. Colors tend towards the pastels, lots of pinks, mint greens, and pale yellows.

The prettiest macarons can be found in Paris, of course, where the prettiest of many things can be found. Specifically at a shop called Laduree which offers an incredible assortment of flavors, like Chocolate, Dark chocolate, Vanilla, Coffee, Rose petal, Pistachio, Salted butter Caramel, Cherry amaretto, Raspberry, Orange blossom, Liquorice, and a few seasonal flavors like Lemon, Praline, Ice mint, Coconut, Chestnut, Grenadine. Not to mention special and temporary creations Java Pepper – Apricot Ginger – Muscovado – Candyfloss – Havana – White amber – Indian Rose – Aniseed – Orange Saffron – Lily-of-the-valley – Strawberry Poppy – Gingerbread – Rosanis…

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You can imagine the incredible range of colors that are on display in the shops, just from reading the names of the flavors. I used some of the colors as a palette for my pillows when I was working on a softer, pastel range. I have also used some for a new range of melamine plates, for which I wanted the feeling of Marie Antoinette-the Sofia Coppola version. That is sort of what Laduree feels like to me—pastel pink and soft, but not too girly. A little hint of something darker underneath.

I am sure you can find various recipes for macarons in books or on-line, but I have not attempted to make them myself, nor will I try.

Instead, I’d like to offer some of my favorite places to buy macarons in New York are:

Payard: 1032 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10021 (212) 717-5252

Bouchon Bakery: 10 Columbus Circle, ( Time Warner Center) Third Floor New York, NY 10019 212.823.9366 bouchonbakery.com also in Las Vegas and Yountville, CA

Almondine: 85 Water St., Brooklyn, NY 11201 in DUMBO (718) 797-5026

I hope you enjoy them as much as I do!

-Thomas Paul

Basic French Meringue Macaron Batter:

(By Helen at Tartlette)

3 egg whites or 90g weighed
50 gr. granulated sugar (about ¼ cup)
200 gr. powdered sugar (about 2 cups of sifted sugar)
110 gr. blanched almonds, whole or ground (3/4 cup of whole almonds/1 and 1/8th cup ground)

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites to a foam, gradually add the sugar until you obtain a glossy meringue. Combine the almonds and powdered sugar in a food processor and give them a quick pulse if you use already ground almonds (that you have ground yourself separately) It will break the powdered sugar lumps and combine your almonds with it evenly. If you use whole almonds, pulse thoroughly for a minute or so. Add them to the meringue, and start to give quick strokes at first to break the mass and slow down. The whole process should not take more than 50 strokes. Test a small amount on a plate: if the tops flatten on its own you are good to go. If there is a small beak, give the batter a couple more folds.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip with the batter and pipe small rounds (1.5 inches in diameter) onto parchment paper baking sheets. Preheat the oven to 300F. Let the macarons sit out for an hour to harden their shells a bit and bake for 10-12 minutes, depending on their size. Let them cool completely before filling. Pipe or spoon some of your filling on one shell and sandwich with another one.

Bittersweet Toffee ganache:
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup (8oz) bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/4 cup toffee bits

In a heavy saucepan set over medium heat, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the stove and add the chocolate to it. Let stand 2 minutes and then stir until fully combined.

Add about 1/4 cup of toffee bits to the ganache once it is whisked.

Let cool until firm enough to put in a small piping bag.

Photography:
Macarons on Thomas Paul plates: Matt Armendariz
Macarons in box: Kristina Gill

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46 Comments

Laura.

i think the styling is GREAT, and never would have suspected a mistake if you hadn’t mentioned it. i was just salivating over some imaginary macarons yesterday, so this hits the spot and inspires me to try making some.
i love the different perspective on the column, too!

Suzanne DeVicaris

Wow, macarons recipes! how thrilling! I always thought these recipes were guarded secrets. Last christmas we had some airmailed in and the size and quantity were disappointing for the price. The styling is beautiful too, I don’t mind the brown at all.

M

I couldn’t follow that story, but it’s happened to me a million times. Americans who are new to Europe tend to not be familiar with “macaron,” and usually think I am talking about those god-awful things when I mention them (don’t worry…there are TONS of yummy stuff in the US that Europeans know nothing about!)

Macarons are so special that I’ve always felt they should only be eaten when in Paris….even if that’s only once in you’re lifetime! In Paris, Lauderee is a very famous bakery with yummy macarons. (there is a diff. bakery that is known to be THE place for macaron, but I do not know the name, and Lauderee is much easier to find)…

If you are in Switzerland, the Spruengli in Zurich is world famous for something very similar, called Luxemburgerli I honestly can’t tell the difference, but they are not the same as Macarons. The Swiss version is apparently a slightly denser pastry than the parisian counterpart.

You’ve def. made me hungry for macaron with this post!

M

*those god-awful COCONUT things. No offense to anyone who likes them…I’m just not a fan of coconut :-)

josephine

what a funny story! i encounter that mix-up all the time. whenever i see a menu that says “macaroons” i expect the coconut things, but then i’ll see the colorful macarons. i always wonder if i should bother to gently correct the baker.

Kasey

I have tried making macarons on so many occasions and they never quite puff up properly. Will definitely have to give this recipe a shot. BTW, I love Matt’s photography. He manages to make everything look gorgeous.

jess

Wonderful pictures! I’ve tried making macaroons so many times…and have always been met with total failure. Now I just pick them up at the bakery on the corner (o:

Sabina

Did someone say – macarons – I am thrilled to have this recipe!! Thanks!!

:)

Tartelette

Stacy: the easiest way to pronounce them is as if you were to say macaroni without the “i” at the end : ma-ca-ron (it is a closed and short “o”).
M: Laduree, Aioki, Mulot and Herme make excellent macarons that is true. I like to bring a little bit of my heritage into my home here in the US and never never refrain from baking them here. Life is too short to wait for Paris!

kristina

truth be told, i love a great pb&j sandwich…and would take one over a pile of macarons anyday.

heck, i’d take a macaroon over a macaron anyday. i liked the sweet wedding macaron (the pink colored one in the picture of the box) most of all of them, but that’s it.

Laduree has had a stand at Maison&Objet for the past few fairs. Like Thomas Paul says…Paris is the best for many pretty things! Laduree and interior design seems like a good match!

Lara Ellis

A note of warning: If you live in the more humid regions of Texas, Louisiana, etc. then Macarons tend to melt/self destruct in the humidity here. At most, a Macaron will stay good for about two hours, tops.

As a result, they are very rare in the south, and a wee bit pricey too. Rush patisserie in Dallas Tx makes a delicious Macaron, but you’ll have to order ahead of time in order to beat the humidity.

Summer

Yay! Thanks for the recipe…I’m going to make some with my mom next month…very excited!

Jnett

Is there an ingredient missing in the buttercream recipe? How do heavy cream and chocolate make toffee?

Jnett

In Napa, there is a bakery called Bouchon, I think related to the French Laundry restaurant, that also has wonderful French macarons. Only 5 varieties, but still very wonderful. They have inspired me to conquer macarons myself. My first attempt was okay, but not wonderful. I did get feet, but they weren’t puffy enough or chewy enough inside for them to be perfect. Lots of practice ahead!

I like that the recipe above says that the piped batter should be about 1.5 inches wide – all of the other recipes I’ve seen so far said 1 inch wide, which isn’t nearly wide enough.

nikki

I’m a big fan of macarons and had a bit of an adventure trying to find the best ones in the city over the summer… my two favorites are missing from this list. My runner up is Silver Moon Bakery on 109th and Broadway (very much worth the trek, especially for their pain au lait) and my favorite macarons are from Macaron (the name says it all–this is what they do!) on 36th and 7th. It’s a tiny French shoppe that’s got really funky decor and about 30 flavors of macarons each day. Fantastique!

d'Auria

Any New Orleanians can attest to the delicious Macarons found at Sucré, which for not having been open a substantially long time, has built a strong, faithful following.

Check them out at http://www.shopsucre.com

No, I don’t work for them. I just obsess over their superfine sugar covered concoctions, and earl grey infused hand-made chocolates. Did I mention their macarons?…

Tartelette

Lara Ellis: I live in SC where it is humid almost everyday of the year and one thing that helps with macarons is to add some meringue powder to the batter. They will keep longer. The best way to store shells is to put them in a airtight container and wrap the container with plastic wrap.

Jnett: indeed, for the toffee part, add about 1/4 cup of toffee bits to the ganache once it is whisked.

tanya

thanks for the recipe–macarons are my absolute favorite things..can’t wait to try it out!

Anita

Lovely styling. Thanks for the recipe too, there are some very good tips in there that will hopefully make my next batch a bit better.

Moira

Kristina – I had the same macaroon/macaron revelation a few months ago when one of my favorite restaurants started making them. I ordered one and got a big surprise – not the coconut cookie I expected. But incredible melt in your mouth experience. Thanks for sharing your confusion and introducing people to these wonderful French delicacies. i think the brown plate look lovely too.

And if your in Los Angeles, the restaurant that makes them is:
Cafe du Village
139 1/2 N Larchmont Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90004-3704
Phone: (323) 466-3996

Here is the link to them on Citysearch:

http://losangeles.citysearch.com/profile/3630/

M

@Tartelette: If you make a mean macaron, more power to you! I just have yet to find a good bakery in the states that makes anything that compares to the real deal. But then again, maybe the allure of a macaron isn’t the pastry itself. Maybe it’s the romance of sitting with a a cup of coffee on a quiet Parisian street and people watching :)

Cakespy

OK, I already knew that I liked Thomas Paul, but now that you add macarons into the mix, I think I am officially in love. No, I don’t think. I know. Sigh…

kristina

I had no confusion about the difference between macarons and macaroons. I just misspelled the word when I wrote to Matt asking him to pick plates to style with “macaroons” instead of writing “macarons”… The ones from Paulette, which are the ones pictured, seem to get the thumbs up from people who have eaten them in France as well as here. I personally haven’t the sensitivity to tell you because I prefer a good macaroon to a macaron any day, and every day…

nic

I love the brown plates with those colors on the macarons!

Stella

Unfortunately, none of those “fancy” attempts will ever be close to the macarons you can eat at Laduree in Paris.

La Fekken

White chocolate would be easier to use food color and make them look more festive.
If you can’t go to Paris just head up here to Traverse City we’ll go downtown near the Bay and the River and i will read Voltaire and sing to you a baudy song. Then you can eat those macrons in a dreamy, gastronimically pleasing location.

deeba

Gorgeous styling & great great shots. Helen does the prettiest macarons ever. Her blog is inspirational & it’s wonderful to see a bi of Tartlette on your beautiful site. Cheers

Anna

We’re lucky in Columbus to have great macarons at Pistacia Vera.

http://www.pistachiosweets.com/

And one of the best things about this dessert is that it is often prepared without gluten! Sinful snacks for celiacs…

al

these look good. but i’m getting a bit bored with all the macaroon hating going around blogs lately. “oh, not THOSE things…i mean the GOOD kind of macaroon!” seriously, every blog, magazine…everywhere i look lately! snore! both types of cookies have their place. the jewish deli we go to makes freakishly awesome coconut macaroons. they are not delicate (oh noes!) they are huge, chewy, fatty, covered in chocolate, $2 apiece, and make no apologies for it.

Alexis

Great recipe, but I was wondering where you found the plates in the picture with the Chinese scenes in them?

Tartelette

Al: as a coconut lover I could not agree more. Each cookie has special place and heritage. As a lover of good sweet things, I appreciate both and always look forward to macaroons.
My grandfather who is 98 always comments on the fact that macarons started as a “darn” plain shell and now he’s got to eat 2 when he really wants just one like in the “good” old days.

Naima

@Anna: Yes! Pistacia Vera in Columbus, Ohio is awesome! My first thought when I read this post was that I had to go there immediately for their wonderful macarons, and possible a couple of other treats. Their pistachio-chocolate chip cookies are amazing.

ale

These macarons remind me of our delicious alfajores… argentinian wonders ;)

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