[image by m.charles]
today i’m taking a brief break from manhattan guides and giving the stage over to two fantastic cities: zurich, switzerland and savannah, ga. up first is a wonderful (and seriously detailed) guide to zurich from d*s reader malene of foodie.ch. malene has created a stunning list of shops, restaurants, book stores, museums, galleries and and much, much more. if you’re lucky enough to be in europe right now, or are planning a trip to zurich, malene’s guide will be great to bring with you. click here to view her full guide or just click ‘read more’ below. thanks, malene!
click here for malene’s handy google map with the guide’s locations…
I have been living in Zurich with my Swiss partner for 5years. When we moved here from Berlin, I didn’t know how I was going to survive in such a quaint city (360,000 inhabitants). Zurich was a complete mystery to me. It still is, but every year that we’ve lived here, things have changed drastically. Zuerchers are living it up a bit more. They are vacationing at home instead of getting out of Dodge because there is alot of fun to be had here. The city is investing heavily into cultural forums & events, art universities (the new ZHdK is set to be completed 2012) and architecture. People are talking openly about and doing new things . My approach to this guide is to highlight the people (and establishments) who are trying to breath new life into the city they live.
There are a few design Kreis (neighborhoods) in the city. Forchstrasse is the restoration/ upholstery district, Talstrasse/ Nueschelerstrasse is for high-end custom design pieces, Neumarkt (Kreis 1) doubles as an architecture tour and Kreis 4/5 is where you’ll find most secondhand items. After the fall of Swiss Air, dozens of Second hand shops appeared selling authentic Eames and Prouve pieces. Many of these places have closed shop and have been replaced with young design start ups.
Neumarkt 17 – This former swimming school now houses avant guarde design. Even if you’re not buying, taking a tour of the shop is a must. (The pools are still there!). Neumarkt 17, 8001, tel 044 254 3838. [email protected]
Neumarkt 17 Design Garage – When your dream Hayon chair is still full price, head to The Garage. Most of the pieces for sale were the either displays, slightly damaged or returned models in the main shop. Kartell, Vitra and other big names selling almost at cost. Only open Saturdays from 10 til 16h; Bleulerstrasse 1 8008, tel 044 381 5204
Zumstein – Zurich is limited when it comes to supply shops but this one is super. Carries almost everything you’ll need to complete design projects. Rennweg 19, 8001, tel 044 211 7770. [email protected]
Maurice de Mauriac – Watches are a big deal in Switzerland but they are mostly manufactured in the french part of the country. A little over 10 yrs ago, young watchmaker Daniel Dreifuss founded Maurice de Mauriac and started manufacturing timepieces from Zurich. Right now, MdM is booming because his pieces are future classics. Toedistrasse 48, 8002, tel 044 280 0112. [email protected]
Zeit.Zone Zurich – A watch boutique with unique timepieces. Kreuzplatz 2 8032, tel 043 244 6776
Two Rooms – is like Zurich’s version of Colette. The shop is off the design route but in an area that is becoming more… dare I say hip. You can tell that the owner, Stefano, loves everything in his shop by the way he presents it all with such care. Sihlfeldstrasse 10, 8003, tel 043 817 2980. [email protected]
Meinrad’s Puppen und Baeren – This is not a design shop but Meinrad’s is worth mentioning. They create beautiful handmade toys using traditional techniques. Neumarkt 12, 8001, tel 044 251 3990.
Architecture & Design Bookshops
Vestibule – Most of the female population in the city shops here. The service is excellent and they carry a good mix of european designers. Just recently, they started their own collection and once a month they hold special events in shop for clients and friends. Spiegelgasse 13, 8001, tel 044 261 1331. [email protected]
Friends of Carlotta – Not just a jewelry shop but a gallery as well. The owner is a former teacher and huge supporter of young jewelry designers. Neumarkt 22, 8001, tel 044 261 8707. [email protected]
Lea Kray – Designs clothes and jewelry using African fabrics. St. Peterhofstatt 3, 8001, tel 043 497 2510
Flower Shops / Hairsalon
Garten Eden – Beatrice Haeusler is an award winning floral artist who is adored by the art community and the locals. Hafnerstrasse 11, 8005, tel 044 273 2929.
Urs Bergmann Florist – One of the prettiest floral shops in the city. Marktgasse 6, 8001, tel 044 261 9425
Sfax – It’s always good to know a hairstylist abroad. The stylists are multilingual, talented and quick. Badenerstrasse 4, 8004, tel 044 241 8787.
Chocolate is everywhere in this city so it’s refreshing to find chocolate shops trying raising the bar on how chocolate is savoured.
Truffe – The owner has a gift for finding the rarest chocolate producers from all over the world and Switzerland. She also makes hot chocolate the original way…pure melted chocolate. Schluesselgasse 12, 8001, tel 043 539 1885.
Zurich is not as not as expensive as you might think. Prices might seem alarming but you have to remember that the tax and tipp are always included in the total.You also have to know where to go. I’ve put together a list of of places where the service is top, the food is great and where you’ll get what you pay for. Unfortunately, Zurich hasn’t adopted non-smoking laws so for the non-smokers going out to eat in the city…two words: eat early.
Grieder Terasse – Great terrace overlooking the Paradeplatz. Bahnhofstrasse 30, 8001, tel 044 224 3636
Odeon Cafe Bar – Opened in 1911 and soon after began to be a popular hangout with James Joyce and Albert Einstein. What alot of people don’t know is that Odeon serves great fresh food. Try the Thai Dream Salad or if you’re really hungry, ask for the Swiss burger. Limmatquai 2, 8001, tel 044 251 1650. [email protected]
Bar Infinito – They serve fresh pressed juices, tasty espressos and homemade iced tea. Sihlstrasse 20, 8001
Confiserie Spruengli – In the shop, service can be poor and the ladies working there are abrupt but in the downstairs cafe and upstairs restaurant, the food is great and the service is flawless. I recommend the baked omlette with grilled vegeatbles. Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8001, tel 044 224 4740. [email protected]
Maison Blunt – Moroccan styling. Vibrant decor. Gasometerstrasse 5, 8005, tel 043 211 0033.
Swiss Chuchi Restaurant – It’s better to wait until the end of your trip to visit the Chuchi because the smell of cheese (fondue) will linger in your clothes for days. Rosengasse 10 8001, tel 044 266 9696.
Restaurants in Hotels
Without going into too much detail, Swiss hotels are infamous for openly turning people away based on ignorant assumptions. But this is changing. There is a new guard of young boutique hoteliers who have embraced the times we live in and who want to make sure their guests have an enjoyable stay in their city.
Sometimes you don’t have a full weekend to head to the mountains. There are beautiful ski locations within 45 mins of the city. There is Hoch Y’Brig (a personal favorite), Flumserberg (you’ll find alot of Zuerchers there) and Flims/Laax (tons of snowboarding events here). Most of these resorts are not touristy and have great conditions. Before you head up, check the Ski Resort Snow Report since the weather in Zurich is never a good indicator of what it will be like in the mountains. The site has a live webcam on different resorts in the country. If you do want to stay up there, for a night try booking a room at Riders Palace Base station, 7032 Laax-Murschetg, tel 081 927 9700.
Museums Art Galleries
Every Thursday Zuritipp publishes all the art openings happening for that week. Free art, canapes and wine… Who can resist ?
Museum fuer Gestaltung – Ausstellungsstrasse 60, 8005, tel 043 446 6738/043 446 6767.
Kunsthaus – In addition to great art, there is a restaurant that serves brunch on Sundays with unlimited plates. Book well in advance. Heimplatz 1, 8001, tel 044 253 8484/ 044 251 53 53. [email protected]
In summer, you hang out by the lake as much as you can. The city has set up these lakeside oasis’ called Bads (or Badi). Some are 1940′s artificial wonderlands while others are 100 years old and made out of wood. Mythenquai is the badi for families, Seebad Enge is for the singles and Frauenbad is girls only. The smartest thing to do is buy the 3 month summer pass that lets you get into all the Badis in the city. City Baths / Stadt Badi